The basics

Engine oil

Oil filter

All engine oil has a finite life. Inside a car engine is a tough place to work and so the oil gets dirty from the residue of the combustion process and engine wear. Changing the oil (and oil-filter) at the manufacturer's recommended intervals is essential for getting the maximum life out of the engine.

DIY oil changes
An hour spent doing an oil change could save you $20, possibly more. Change the oil filter while waiting the 20 minutes or so for the oil to drain.

• Use a filter wrench to loosen the old filter.
• Put a smear of oil on the sealing ring of the new filter, and tighten by hand - usually around 3/4 to one turn (check the instructions) after the sealing ring has touched the engine.
• Replace the sump plug sealing washer, and use only a socket or a ring spanner on the sump plug and tighten firmly - you don't want it vibrating loose.

Cooling fluid (anti-freeze, corrosion-inhibitor, or coolant)

Anti-freeze is absolutely essential. It not only stops the engine from freezing on a cold night; it also protects against internal corrosion. But the trouble is that anti-freeze becomes less effective over time.

DIY coolant changes
It's important to get the correct anti-freeze for your car. Some manufacturers market their own in-house brand, which may have a longer life. Check the change interval recommended for your car, and the one recommended on the anti-freeze packaging, and go with the shortest interval.

To drain the cooling system, you need a cool engine.

• Some cars have drain plugs. For others, remove the lower radiator hose clip at the radiator end.
• Once the coolant has drained, flush the system by refitting the hose and slowly filling the radiator with water.
• Run the engine for a few minutes with the heater set to "hot" and the radiator cap off. Top up with water as necessary.
• Drain again, refit the lower hose and tighten the hose clip.
• Now add the anti-freeze/corrosion inhibitor in the proportions stated on the pack (commonly 33 percent) and top up as necessary. Most cars fill through the radiator filler, but others have a filler at the highest point in the system, and some also have bleed valves to get rid of air locks - check the workshop manual.
• Start the engine and keep your eye on the water level as the engine warms, adding small amounts as air bubbles work themselves out of the system.

Check all hoses for leaks. Never add cold water (or anti-freeze mix) to a hot engine. Always re-check the coolant level after the first drive and cool down.

Environment watch
Used coolant must not be tipped into stormwater drains. It can, however, be tipped down the toilet.

Brake fluid

Brake fluid absorbs water. If you look at most manufacturers' service schedule, you'll see that the brake fluid should be changed every few years. Few people do this.

Transmission fluid

With a manual transmission it's important to change the fluid at the recommended intervals. But for an automatic transmission it's absolutely essential. Auto transmissions usually have a filter that's changed at the same time as the fluid.

Spark plugs

Some cars are fitted with long-life spark plugs. These are replaced at around 100,000km and require no servicing in between. If you have conventional spark plugs, reset the gaps at around 10,000km and replace them every 40,000km. Find out what type of plugs you need from the manufacturer's service schedule.

Fuel filters

Many cars use a replaceable fuel filter. Engine power will drop if the filter becomes clogged. Change it around every 50,000km, unless the handbook says longer.

Air filters

A clogged-up air filter will cost you in increased fuel consumption and reduced performance. Air filters in most modern cars are accessible and reasonably straightforward to change, perhaps needing only a screwdriver or spanner.

Brake pads/linings

An under-body check should reveal the state of the brakes. Don't rely on your WOF assessments - the WOF brake check just requires that they are working. Waiting until you hear a graunching noise when you brake isn't a good idea. Those graunching noises are metal-to-metal contact, causing damage to the brake discs or drums.