Our How To Guide

1. Choose the right plants

Plants that do well near the coast have built-in protection from the bright sunlight, harsh drying wind, salt spray and other adverse conditions. Some, like echium (pictured right), have fine hairs on their leaves, giving them a silvery or grey appearance. Others, like taupata, have a thick, waxy cuticle, giving a reflective shine to both stems and leaves.

Succulents store water in their leaves and stems while other plants, like bulbs, lie dormant beneath the surface to weather out drought or cold, bursting forth only when conditions are favourable. And some, like the native grasses, have narrow leaves, less prone to drying and damage in strong winds.

2. Provide shelter from the storm

Wind can damage leaves and in severe cases stunt growth. Even the toughest varieties grow better given some shelter. Avoid creating solid barriers, though. They simply deflect the wind up and over, causing turbulence on the leeward side that can sometimes be more damaging than the original wind. Ideally a windbreak should be 40-50% permeable. The idea is to reduce the force of the wind rather than change its direction.

If space permits, start with a mix of low-growing plants such as grasses, shrubs and flax (Phormium) to break the initial force. Follow this with taller shrubs and small trees. A planting like this may, however, occupy at least three or four metres and few gardens can afford this loss of space, so a fence or wall is often more appropriate. Build your fence with gaps (of up to half a slat width) between each slat. Break up a solid wall with gaps at regular intervals, closed in with trellis or some other permeable material. If you already have a solid barrier you can fix trellis along the top and train a tough climber like bougainvillea, ivy-leafed pelargonium or Campsis radicans over it to break the force of the wind. The filtering effect usually extends for a distance of four to six times the height of the windbreak.

Leave gaps between shrubs and trees, or windows in fences, to frame views from the garden. Create further calm areas elsewhere in the garden with plantings of shrubs and trees, low hedges, or structures like a climber-clad pergola.

3. Add organic matter

Soil around the coast varies greatly. It may be sandy, clay or even stony soil over a rock base. Poor soil structure, lack of organic matter, low fertility and low soil moisture are usually the main problems you have to contend with. Tackle all these problems in one go - apply generous amounts of organic matter, ideally to already damp soil. The easiest way is to mulch with compost, bark or other organic matter. Lay it 6-8cm thick, leaving a gap around stems and trunks to avoid collar rot. At first it may seem to disappear quickly, especially in damp conditions, but as plants become established and create shade the mulch will last longer. Alternatively, choose plants from our list that are suitable for extremely exposed sites. They'll tolerate particularly poor soils as long as they're not waterlogged.

4. Give new plants special attention

Ideally, plant in autumn or early winter. The soil is usually moist then and should remain so for several months, allowing good root growth before the stresses of summer. In sandy and stony conditions you can mix organic matter with the soil at planting time. If there's a choice at the garden centre select small plants rather than large ones of the same species. Not only are they cheaper but they often survive better in adverse conditions and soon reach a comparable size.

Plant in groups for mutual shelter, or provide temporary shelter with windbreak fabric, brushwood or the like. Stake plants if necessary to prevent the root system rocking in high winds. You can place stones or driftwood around the plant to anchor it as well as to shade the soil.

Water well immediately after planting and apply a generous layer of organic mulch, or use gravel, stones or crushed seas shells. Check regularly - you may have to water occasionally until plants establish.

5. Regular maintenance

Keep weeds under control - they use precious water and nutrients. Top up mulch as often as practicable.

If growth is poor apply fertiliser, but not to members of the Proteaceae family, such as proteas and leucadendrons. Sandy soils have little ability to hold nutrients, so use slow-release or general garden fertilisers that provide nutrients for some time rather than readily soluble or liquid types. Ideally, apply in spring or autumn when the soil is moist. Only water if really needed and then, to discourage surface rooting, make sure the water penetrates deeply into the soil.