Why label?

Cosmetic products can contain a bewildering array of chemicals – check out the label on your shampoo bottle some time. Many of these chemicals are used without any evident problems. But others can cause adverse reactions; and for some people, these can be severe (see the case study below).

Safety concerns about the chemicals in cosmetics have seen the European Union (EU) ban over 1300 substances; another 40 were added to the banned list in the last year after the industry was unable to prove these were safe to use. Restrictions have also been imposed on more than 300 other chemicals, which can be used only in limited quantities and usually require a warning label.

Similar rules apply here. Our cosmetics regulations are based on EU standards and need to be updated regularly so that we don’t fall behind. Ingredients labelling brings us into line with the EU. And labelling is necessary, because it lets consumers know what’s in a product and helps them make an informed decision about whether they want to buy it.

Many cosmetic products available here are international brands and they already comply with labelling laws in Europe and in the US. That’s the good news. The bad news is we’ve discovered it’s extremely easy to find products – including well-known brands – that don’t list their ingredients.

Case study: an age-defying reaction

Tala Lewis

Consumer member Mrs Tala Lewis (pictured) recently bought a jar of Olay’s Age Defying Series Eye Gel at The Warehouse, a product she had been using for many years. But she got more than she bargained for. Tala had an allergic reaction to this Chinese-made gel; after one application, she felt a burning sensation and one side of her face and her eye swelled up.

She rang the 0800 number shown on the packaging but couldn’t get through – so she contacted us. We tried the 0800 number too and had the same experience. We then got hold of the manufacturer, Procter and Gamble, to find out more about this product.

Spokesperson Jolie Egan told us “adverse events of this nature are extremely rare”. So what might have been the cause? It’s possible Tala may have had an allergic reaction to imidazolidinyl urea – one of the ingredients in the eye gel. According to the New Zealand Dermatological Society, imidazolidinyl urea is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative used in many cosmetics.

Formaldehyde is a known irritant which can cause the type of reaction Tala experienced. A patch test would be required to check whether she was allergic.

If you have a reaction to any cosmetic product, stop using it immediately – and phone your GP. If patch testing shows you’re allergic to a particular substance, you’ll need to do a close read of the ingredients labels on cosmetics so you can avoid using the substance again.

Cosmetics labels should also have contact details for the company – ideally a freephone – so consumers can ask questions. Procter and Gamble’s Jolie Egan told us it has tested the 0800 number for Kiwi consumers and it is working.