Polly Miller kayaking the Arctic Ocean

Meet Polly Miller (pictured on the left of the photo), an ardent kayaker who set out with two friends in early July to kayak around Svalbard, an archipelago in the Arctic Ocean above mainland Europe.

Equipment for the 56-day expedition included food, cookers, tents, repair kits, clothing, dry-suits, maps, a compass - and three guns to ward off marauding polar bears. All this gear was packed into three sea kayaks.

Kayaking in the Arctic Ocean is dangerous: "Sometimes we paddled about 20km off-shore. The water temperature hovers around one to two degrees, and the wind is always blowing. You don't want to end up in the drink! There are also walruses, which have a reputation for attacking kayaks. We met a few along the way and they are simply enormous."

So why would anyone want to kayak that far north? "I've always wanted to visit a polar region and access to Svalbard is relatively easy by plane. The wildlife is extraordinary. Birds, seals, arctic foxes and reindeer are totally unafraid; they sneak right up on you. Quite often I'd be feeling cold and miserable and a curious puffin or seal would brighten the day."

Polly says New Zealand is a paddling Mecca. "There are many unsung kayaking heroes living in New Zealand. I got into the sport because the people are such excellent value."


Top 10 New Zealand sea kayaking trips


Kerry Howe is an avid sea kayaker and author of the book Coastal Sea Kayaking in New Zealand. We asked Kerry to pick his top New Zealand sea kayak adventures. They're listed geographically from North to South.

  • Bay of Islands: There's a great Department of Conservation (DOC) camp on Urupukapuka Island. Experienced kayakers can paddle out to Cape Brett and through the hole in Piercy Island.
  • Tutukaka coast, Northland: The coastline from Tutukaka to Whangaruru is a kayaker's dream. But make sure the weather's settled before heading out. Lots of road access and several campsites, including a DOC camp at Mimiwhangata.
  • Mahurangi, Auckland: Put in at Sullivan's Bay. Lots of islands to explore including magnificent Motuora Island with its DOC camp. The energetic can circumnavigate Kawau Island.
  • Inner Hauraki Gulf, Auckland: There are three gems here - paddle out to Rangitoto Island, and walk to the summit from Mackenzie Bay. Otherwise, try the stunning Motutapu and Motuihe Islands (complete with great DOC campsites).
  • Coromandel Peninsula: Tiki tour around the peninsula from Fantail Bay to Waikawau. There are numerous DOC camps to stay in - but watch the wind while paddling.
  • Cape Runaway to Opotiki, Bay of Plenty: A remote area that resembles how New Zealand used to be. Easy road access, legendary fishing and some free camp sites still available.
  • Cape Kidnappers, Hawke's Bay: A great day trip from Clifton or Te Awanga. Make sure you climb the cliff track to the amazing gannet colony.
  • Kapiti Island, Kapiti Coast: This trip is in the Cook Strait so watch the weather! Kapiti Island is a nature reserve - you can only land at a few spots. Definitely no camping without a permit.
  • Queen Charlotte Sound, Marlborough Sounds: There are endless paddling opportunities from Picton. Innumerable coves, islands and camp sites. Highlights include Ship Cove and the bird sanctuary of Motuara Island.
  • d'Urville Island; Marlborough Sounds: For experienced paddlers only - rugged, remote, potentially dangerous ... but well worth it.

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