Health & beauty
Bra fitting
Introduction
In search of the perfect bra? We explain what to look for.
Finding the right fit and style in a bra can be a difficult task. Sizes can be inconsistent between brands, and even between different styles in the same brand.
Our free guide shows you how to find the right fit.
Good fit
1. Shoulder straps are snug, without falling down or cutting into your skin.
There are no unsightly bulges when you put on your top – check above and below the underband at the back, and above the cups at the front (it's often more obvious with a close-fitting top than when bare).
2.The side wing encloses the breast with no bulging bits near your armpits.
3. The back of the underband lies level with the front. The underband is snug enough not to shift around, but still allows you to fit two fingers under the hooks.
4. The mid-point of the breast should sit on your chest wall approximately halfway down your upper arm. They shouldn't be squashed towards each other, nor so far apart that they're heading sideways.
5. The wire closely encases the breast at the sides, in the middle and at the bottom.
6. The bra stays in place when you lift your arms.
7. The material of the cup lies smoothly and encloses breast tissue at the top. Ideally, the wire at the centre-front sits flat on the chest. However, this might not be possible in large (E or F) cup sizes.
8. The front underband pulls the wire snugly, but allows you to fit a finger under it.
Bad fit
1. Shoulder straps dig into your shoulders – most likely the straps are bearing too much weight. The underband size (12,14 etc) may be too big, or the shoulder straps too short to adjust properly. They could also be too thin. Shoulder straps slide off. Try tightening them; if that's not the problem, try a style with shoulder straps aligned in the middle of the cup, rather than to the side. Flesh bulges over the back underband – the underband is too small.
2. Flesh bulges over the bra at the armpits – the side wings are too narrow. You may need a fuller-figure style bra.
3. Wire digs into your arm - the wire may be too long for you, or the cup is too big, so the wire doesn't sit against the root of the breast.
4. Wire cuts across the breast tissue, or doesn't sit snugly up against the sides/bottom of the breast tissue – the wire is the wrong shape. Try a different size, or a different brand/model.
The underband is too big if:
- The cup puckers at the nipple.
- The back of the underband rises in the middle.
- The bra moves up when you raise your arms.
- The cup is too big or the wrong style for you if:
- It's baggy or wrinkly.
5. The cup size is too small if:
- Breast tissue pokes out the bottom (this could also happen if the underband is too big).
- Breast tissue spills out at the sides.
- Breast tissue bulges out the top of the cup.
Our advice
- Try on more than one bra and more than one brand. Ask the fitter for several different styles of bra so you can see which one looks best.
- There should be some hands-on checks by the fitter to see the wire fits all the way under the breast, the underband tension is correct, and that the shoulder straps fit properly.
- Look for a firm underband to counterbalance the weight of the bust. A loose band means more weight is transferred to the shoulder straps, which then dig into the skin. A bra should be fitted on the middle hook because it will stretch over time.
- The underwire should sit under the breast, not on the breast tissue. It should create a cradle to assist the cup in supporting the breast. The cup should completely enclose the breast without being baggy.
- Fit the bra to your larger breast – women commonly have uneven breasts.
- Be aware that bra sizes vary between brands and even different styles from the same brand. Most women are unlikely to be a standardised bra size.
- Remember that your breasts can fluctuate in size depending on your menstrual cycle.
- Take a T-shirt to your bra fitting or ask for one at the store. This gives you a good indication of what it's going to look like.
- When putting on a bra, don't put it on backwards to hook it up and then twist it around the right way. This puts stress and stretch on the band. Instead, put your arms though the straps, lean forward and hook up the bra before making adjustments to the cups and straps.
Washing tips
Most bra manufacturers recommend washing your bras by hand. But as most people don't have the time, we suggest using a washing bag (solid not mesh). If you don't want to buy a special bag, a pillow case will do. Also remember to do the hooks up before you wash it.
Don't expect a bra that's been machine washed and worn several times a week to last more than a few months.