Appliances
Clothes dryers
Introduction
Suffering from wet day washing woes? We put 19 clothes dryers through their paces.
We've tested the drying time, efficiency and ease of use of a wide selection of models priced up to $3800, including vented, condenser and heat-pump models.
We also explain what features are worth looking for, what size dryer you'll need, and provide tips for buying second-hand.
Models we tested
This report contains test results and recommendations for the following vented, condenser and heat-pump clothes dryers:
| Fisher & Paykel DE45F56EW1 |
| Fisher & Paykel Intuitive DEIX1 |
| Haier HDY60 |
| Haier HDY-C70 |
| Miele Softronic EcoComfort T8627WP |
| Simpson 39P400M |
| Simpson 39S500M |
| Simpson 39S505EM |
| Simpson 39S600M |
Checklist
If you're in the market for a dryer here's what to consider.
Size
The normal size for a clothes dryer is 4.5 - 5 kilograms, which corresponds to a 5 - 5.5 kg size washing machine. Unless you've got space constraints in your laundry area or don't have big loads, avoid the small 3.5kg models. They tend to be less energy efficient.
Size for size, with vented sensor/timer models, there's not a huge difference in running costs. Expect to pay 70 to 75c for a 3.5kg load, between 90 and 95c for a 5kg load and around $1.10 for a 6kg load. We recommend you buy a 2-star model (at minimum), to keep the costs down.

If you need to dry big loads of washing quickly, a large style clothes dryer (as pictured) is the answer. The bad news is that these big models are expensive, and you'll most likely have extra costs to install the high capacity 20 amp wiring they require. They're also very big, and can't be wall-mounted or stacked on a front-loading washing machine.
Despite being high powered, they're only slightly less energy efficient than smaller models.
Sensor-and-timer or timer-only?
A sensor decides when the clothes are dry enough and then turns the dryer off. Models with a sensor usually have a timer as well, so you have more flexibility. But sensor-and-timer models tend to be more expensive. Think about how often you'll use the sensor: there's no point paying for sensor drying if you use it only occasionally.
Ducting
Clothes dryers generate lots of warm moist air - and a model that can be ducted outside is preferable. Ducting to the outside prevents dripping walls and mouldy ceilings.
Filter position
Clothes dryers produce lint, which is collected in a filter.
Lint build up reduces drying efficiency and can cause overheating, so an easy to reach filter is important for regular cleaning. Filters mounted at the back of the drum are harder to reach for cleaning. This means you might be tempted to skip this task rather than cleaning the filter regularly.
Check ducts from time to time for dust and lint build up, which also lowers efficiency and can become a fire hazard.
Reverse tumbling
This feature can help prevent clothes tangling and creasing.
Wall mounting or stackable
You'll save space if your dryer can be mounted on the wall or stacked on top of a front-loading washing machine.
Stackable models are usually designed to be mounted on top of front-loading washing machine from the same brand. If you want to stack your dryer, check on this before you buy it.
Drying racks
These are used for drying shoes and other non-fabric items. Racks are usually an optional extra, available in internal and external types. External racks only work with non-ducted models with an exhaust grille in the front door.

Drying time
This varies widely between models, and depends on the capacity of the machine, and the weight of clothes being dried. The quickest 5kg models can dry a load of clothes in about 2 hours. Slower models can take up to 40 minutes longer.
Automatic restart
Some dryers automatically restart if the door is opened and then closed mid-cycle. It's better for child safety if the dryer has to be restarted manually.
Energy efficiency
Can a dryer be energy efficient? The answer is no - at least not if it's a conventional warm-air-blowing model. Heating air and blowing it through the dryer is costly - almost a dollar a load on the big 6kg models.
Some (but not all) condenser dryers are more energy efficient than conventional models. Heat-pump dryers are extremely energy efficient, but they're very expensive to buy.
Use a clothesline as much as you can. There are no running costs - apart from replacing the pegs now and then! Use your washing machine's fastest spin-speed when that load's going into the dryer. The more water you spin out, the less power you use.
Buying second-hand
A clothes dryer is a basic appliance and you can buy one cheaply second-hand. Here's our advice:
- Buy only if the dryer looks tidy and well cared for. Stick to well-known brands.
- Check that the door opens and shuts properly.
- Under the Electricity Act, all electrical appliances for sale must be safe - whether they're new or second-hand, bought privately or from a dealer.
- If you buy from a second-hand dealer and then discover the dryer's faulty, you're covered by the Consumer Guarantees Act. If you buy privately, you're not.
Tips for safe use
- Lint build-up is a fire hazard. It also reduces drying efficiency and can cause overheating. Clean the lint filter after each use - and regularly move your dryer and vacuum up lint from the surrounding walls.
- Turn off the dryer whenever you're away from the house or are asleep.
- Plastic items (such as shower caps and plastic-backed baby bibs) shouldn't go into the dryer: they'll melt.
- Items made of rubber can catch fire. Keep them out of the dryer, too.
- Watch out for clothes or towels that have been in contact with oils, waxes or products containing petroleum or alcohol (like hair-styling products) - they may be flammable. Make sure they've been washed in hot water before you put them in the clothes dryer.
- Let the dryer complete its cool-down cycle before turning it off.
