Appliances
Fridge-freezers
Introduction
Test results for 45 fridge-freezers, priced from $850 to over $5000.
Whether you're after a tiny apartment-sized model or a huge side-by-side for a family, we have a recommendation for you. Our interactive test results database allows you to sort by type, size or price, or compare test results across the whole range.
We also tell you what to look for in a fridge-freezer, explain energy star ratings, and provide tips on maintaining the right temperature.
Models we tested
Our report contains test results and recommendations for the following fridge-freezers:
Decoding Fisher & Paykel
Fisher & Paykel (F&P) model codes tell quite a story about the fridge.
F&P's E522BRXFDU can be decoded like this:
E = electronically controlled fridge-freezer
522 = approximate gross capacity in litres
B = bottom-mount freezer (T = top-mount)
R = right-hand side door hinge (L = left-hand)
X = EZKleen stainless (M = Iridium stainless)
FD = flat door (E = Elegance series with curved door, usually in white)
U = ice and water
New test method
The most important function of a fridge-freezer is keeping food fresh. So we’ve changed the way we test – our focus is now on temperature performance and energy efficiency. We no longer assess ease of use.
To reflect the changes to our testing method, we’ve revised the scores of previously tested models that are still available. This means some of our recommendations have changed since our earlier reports.
Our new test
As fridge manufacturers come under pressure to increase energy efficiency, they look for ways of saving energy. One way of doing this is by having longer “compressor-off cycles” – and this can cause temperature fluctuations. But consistent temperatures are important for maintaining food quality, so we assessed temperature fluctuations as the compressor stopped and started.
For optimum food storage, your fridge should be running at 3°C and your freezer at -18°C – at the same time. We checked whether each compartment could be independently set to a range of different temperature combinations.
Ideally, you want each compartment’s temperature to be the same throughout: if the bottom of the fridge is too cold your leafy greens will freeze; and if the door-shelf is too warm your milk will go off faster. That’s why we’ve measured temperature uniformity throughout each compartment.
Fridge and freezer temperatures can be affected by a change in the surrounding air temperature. So we tested each fridge-freezer’s ability to deal with seasonal change. A low score means you’d need to adjust that model’s temperatures when the weather turns cold or becomes warmer.
We used the manufacturer's recommended settings to assess how close the fridge and freezer were to optimal food-storage temperatures. If there wasn’t a recommended setting, we used the mid setting. A poor score for recommended settings means you’d have to use a fridge thermometer to get optimum temperatures (but we recommend you do this for any fridge).
Finally we measured energy use for each model – we then adjusted this for different fridge and freezer volumes and calculated energy efficiency.
See the Test results for details of how all the fridge-freezers performed.
Basic decisions
Size
Finding the best size usually involves striking a balance between your budget, your family's needs and the size of your kitchen.
- We estimate a typical family of 4 doing its main shopping trip once a week would need 400 to 500 litres of total storage.
- There are fridge-freezers as small as 170L, but these will only be useful in small apartments, or baches. In general, they do not perform as well as their larger cousins.
- You can get vertically stacked models up to 600L, and side-by-side fridge-freezers with a total of 600L to 800L. But side-by-side models cost a good $1000 more.
- As long as it fits in your kitchen space, go for the largest fridge-freezer you can afford. It's false economy to keep your old fridge to cope with any extra demand. Old fridges are much less energy efficient, and one new large model with a bit of spare capacity will almost certainly run for less than an older smaller one. If you must keep the old one, switch it on only when you need it.
- If you're buying a fridge to fit an existing space, remember to check the measurements. Australian-made models and the bigger sizes from all brands may not fit.
Storage space
Whatever size you buy, check with the real items you commonly store to see how well they'll fit.
- If you like to keep pizzas in the fridge, where will they go?
- Will you be able to line the door shelves with your usual two-litre milk containers and large juice bottles?
- If you like whole watermelon in summer, is there enough shelf space?
Which type of fridge?
Side-by-side or vertical?
Big side-by-side fridge-freezers with chilled water and ice dispensers are a lot more energy-efficient than large models of old. The trouble is, they don't compete with vertical models for usable space. That handy ice-and-water dispenser usually reduces the freezer space by around 30 percent.
This means that a 600L side-by-side fridge-freezer is about the size of a 540L vertical model, but it costs at least $1200 more. You can get a good 520L vertical for $2100, whereas an ice-making side-by-side model will cost $3000 or possibly a lot more, depending on the brand and finish.
The fridge and freezer compartments on side-by-side models are narrower and deeper than in a vertically stacked fridge. This will be a problem for anyone who has trouble finding things in the back. The freezers are especially narrow: in one of the models we tested, you can't lie a large pizza flat.
You also need to consider whether a side-by-side will fit your kitchen, or even through the doors into the house! Will there be room for the doors to open fully? These are big beasts, so check dimensions carefully.
Remember to allow ventilation space on the sides, back and top. It's usually around 5cm, but ask the dealer for the exact requirements. The top can require up to 30cm clearance! Also, if they have a through-the-door icemaker and water dispenser, you will need to get a plumber to install them.
Top or bottom freezer?
Ultimately, it comes down to your needs and personal preference.
- Having the fridge uppermost is generally more convenient. You open the fridge door many more times per day than you do the freezer, so it makes sense to have the fridge in the more accessible, upper position. For users in wheelchairs, having the freezer at the bottom will make it easier to get food in and out of both compartments.
But fridges with bottom freezers tend to have cold vegetable crispers, because the crisper sits on top of the freezer (although some models have a small heater under the crispers to overcome this!). - Having the freezer on top can mean the whole unit performs a little better. But fridges with top freezers tend to have warm crispers, because they sit at the bottom well away from the freezer.
Look for a minimum score in our Test results of 6.0 for all aspects of temperature performance except the recommended setting – you can adjust the recommended setting to get a better result.
Other considerations
Noise
All fridges can be quite noisy during start up and defrost periods, and make cracking or gurgling noises. But at 36 or 37 decibels, a 400L vertical fridge is not noticeably noisy for most of the time. From 45dBA it could get a little irritating in an open-plan kitchen/living area.
Environmental issues
Fridges used to be made with and contain environmentally unfriendly CFC gases. Now, they commonly contain "R134a" refrigerant, which does not damage the ozone layer although it does contribute to the greenhouse effect. And they are made using ozone-friendly, low greenhouse-effect gases.
A more environmentally sound refrigerant, R600a, is used by some manufacturers. It's a hydrocarbon so it's flammable and therefore carries a small safety risk.
To make the smallest greenhouse-emissions impact over time, a fridge’s energy efficiency is more important than the type of refrigerant used. But if you want to check which refrigerant your fridge uses, all models have this information on the fridge specification plate in the cabinet.
Energy consumption
It's not always a matter of size. While in general a bigger fridge will use more power than a smaller one, some smaller models we've tested cost half as much again to run as some bigger models. A fridge's "star rating" and annual energy consumption is printed on the label so you can make comparisons in the showroom. All fridges must have the label, but watch for tricks like putting the display card over the top of the label.
See the Energy rating section for more information.
Adjustable rollers or feet
The body of the fridge-freezer must be perfectly level and square. The size and width of large models means they can easily distort, and then the doors may not seal properly. Level adjustments on all four corners may be needed to get the balance right. Rollers (with brakes!) make it much easier to pull the fridge out for cleaning.
Buying second-hand
Stick to well-known brands under 5 years old, as newer models are much more energy efficient. They’re also easier to get parts for if anything needs fixing.
- Check the door seal is intact and in good condition.
- Make sure the door is hinged on the correct side for your kitchen (or is reversible).
- Make sure the interior is in good nick and free from funny smells.
- If you buy a fridge from a second-hand dealer and then discover it’s faulty, you're covered by the Consumer Guarantees Act. If you buy privately, you're not.
- Under the Electricity Act, all electrical appliances for sale must be safe – whether they’re new or second-hand, bought privately or from a dealer.
Doors and shelves
Doors
- Most fridges give you the choice of which side the door opens when you buy, or allow you to change it later.
- Some models have door-closing mechanisms for fridge and freezer. This helps avoid the situation of the door sitting slightly open with no one noticing. Some also have an alarm that sounds if you leave the door open.
- It's handy to be able to get all the trays and baskets out without having to open the doors any wider than 90°. Many people have their fridges in a corner, so when the doors are open 90° they are hard against the wall.
- Side-by-side models don't offer a choice of the side which doors open. As well, the doors on this type of fridge-freezer may get in the way of using drawers and shelves if the doors cannot open to an angle well beyond 90°.
Shelves
- Most models have a good range of positions for shelves, but they must be fully removed before being reinserted. Many can't be pulled out unless the door is opened well beyond 90°.
- Solid shelves are an improvement on wire grill shelves. They stop spills dribbling all the way through the fridge, they make those spills less likely anyway because they provide a more stable surface, and they are easier to wipe clean.
Drawers
Easier to load, harder to find small items in the bottom. If the door cannot open beyond 90°, you may not be able to pull the drawer out far enough to reach the back.
Extra storage features
Most models come with a range of extra features. Consider what your needs are, and any special food requirements you have.
Butter conditioners
These used to be a standard feature of New Zealand fridges, but they seem to have gone the way of the dinosaurs. We think that's a good thing. Butter conditioners lower a fridge's energy efficiency, and they don't necessarily keep butter at a useful temperature anyway. If you want to keep butter a bit warmer, use the dairy compartment in the door.
Chillers
These are genuinely useful. Ideal for storing meat or super cooling the beer. They provide cooler storage (just above 0°C) than the rest of the fridge, so are good for storing meat and fish. They also prevent the food dripping onto other food and contaminating it. Some models have a separate control for the chiller.
Crisper
We measure the humidity in the crisper, which is a guide to how well unwrapped vegetables will stay fresh. Crispers need to have a lid that seals properly, so the humidity is contained. Some models have a special humidity control so you can get it just right.
Can dispenser
Not a very common feature, but we like it! A handy wire under-shelf rack partitioned into three rows: you take one of the front cans and the rest roll forward. New Zealand beer cans (330mL) and soft drink cans (355mL) will fit, but the slightly larger Aussie beer cans (375mL) won't.
Separate vegetable drawers
Having a third compartment can make access to the vegies more convenient. But unless it has an airtight lid, it will not function as a proper vegetable crisper. Vegetables not in a crisper should be wrapped before storing: the easiest option is to use the bags supplied by supermarkets in the vegetable section.
Containers
Side-by-side models tend to have more self-enclosed containers than vertical models. These make fridge storage tidy (and more hygienic), but they also take up space and can make access a bit harder.