Review

Handpresso Wild portable espresso maker

It looks like a bicycle pump but the Handpresso Wild ($250) makes a shot of espresso straight into your cup whether you’re travelling, boating or camping.

• You start by pumping it exactly like a bicycle pump until it reaches the green zone in its pressure gauge.
• Then fill the small water tank with boiling water and place a coffee pod (similar to a round tea bag) into the small filter.
• Next screw on the lid, turn the machine over and press the release button. And – hey presto! – pressurised air drives the water through the coffee and into your cup. This can be rather fiddly, especially if you’re already shaking from caffeine withdrawal.

The idea behind this on-the-go gadget is primo, but unfortunately the coffee it delivers isn’t. The espresso is extremely weak, with little crema – and there are large air bubbles released towards the end of the operation. The water in the tank doesn’t maintain the desirable 92°C long enough, resulting in under-extracted coffee.

While the Handpresso may be portable, you still need an electric jug or gas stove to boil the water. Hot water in a good-quality thermos can reduce from 100°C to around 80°C in four hours, which would even further reduce the coffee quality. And since there's no milk-frother, you’re limited to an espresso or long black.

Our verdict

Given the Handpresso’s high price and lack of coffee quality, we can’t recommend it. But if you really need an espresso while fishing in a dinghy or trekking to a mountain peak it’s one of the few options.