Updated: 02 Nov 2009

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Introduction

We trial 3 very different scooters ... and expose flaws in the regulations governing mopeds.

Scooters are more eco-friendly and cheaper to run than cars - and there are even electric ones now. We put 3 quite different options through their paces. We also provide buying tips for new and second-hand scooters, and take a closer look at the electric scooter option.

Note: this report is a guide only and doesn't contain detailed test results or brand-specific recommendations.

The case for scooters

New 50cc scooters generally cost between $1200 and $5000, with most hovering around the $2000 mark. If you spend $8 a day on parking, as many city workers do, that works out at around $2000 a year - the price of a brand-new 50cc scooter.

When it comes to fuel-efficiency, the latest hybrid cars will claim around 23 kilometres per litre. A five-litre V8 will get you more like seven kilometres. Compare that with most 50cc scooters which claim around 50km, and some as high as 65km. It's clear a scooter can more than halve your fuel bill.

Most scooters have storage space under the seat, and many can be fitted with lockable storage boxes to hold briefcases and groceries.

Scooters over 50cc cost more to register on the road than a car (because of a higher ACC levy), but generally cost less to insure. What's more, if you own a scooter that's classified as a moped (see Legal definitions), you won't need a WoF or a motorcycle licence - you can use your car licence.

In the table below we compare a $2000 used car with a $2000 new 50cc scooter, to show the differences in ongoing costs.

Car versus scooter

	Used car	New 50cc scooter
Purchase price	$2000	$2000
Parking cost per week	$40	$0
Parking cost per year	$1920	$0
Third-party insurance	$100-300	$100-150
Annual licensing/registration	$248	$130 first year / $90 thereafter
WoF per year	$90	$0
Best fuel economy	23km per litre	65km per litre

 

Legal definitions

Most scooters are classified as mopeds – a quaint term dating back many years.

Mopeds have an engine size of 50cc or less, 2kW or less of power, and a design speed no faster than 50km/h. If the scooter exceeds any of these criteria, it’s legally classed as a motorcycle.

Mopeds are popular because they’re much cheaper to register than motorcycles, they don’t require a WoF and their riders don’t need a motorcycle licence.

The implications of engine size

	50cc or less	Over 50cc
Vehicle class	Moped	Motorcycle
Maximum speed	50km/h	More than 50km/h
Licence required	Any driver licence	Motorcycle licence
WoF required?	No	Yes
First year on-road cost	$130	$528
Annual licensing fee	$90	$321

Many imported 50cc scooters produce more than 2kW of power – that’s because most countries don’t have moped laws like ours. So to make these scooters comply here, they may have restrictors inserted to limit their power to 2kW.

Flouting moped rules

Given the disparity in compliance costs and the advantages of having a more powerful scooter (as seen in our tests), many individuals and dealers flout the moped regulations. They do this by registering scooters with engines larger than 50cc as mopeds, or by removing the restrictors that limit a moped’s power.

We asked five scooter dealers if they remove the restrictors for customers and/or register more powerful and non-compliant scooters as mopeds. Four out of the five said they did – regularly.

One dealer admitted it was common for people to register larger scooters, even up to 200cc, as mopeds: “You can go down and register your dog as a moped, because no one checks.”

The dealers who admitted flouting the regulations said they thought the rules were outdated and mopeds shouldn’t be limited to 50km/h. One dealer told us, “I think it needs to be faster than 50km/h so that urban areas can be negotiated safely”.

All the dealers we spoke to say more rider training is needed. “I offer to give some customers brief rider training but most turn it down,” said one. “You can see they can hardly ride a bicycle. We sell the scooter on Friday and it’s back on Saturday with crash damage.”

What’s being done?

The New Zealand Transport Authority tells us that pre-registration checks will be introduced for mopeds in 2010. These are likely to include ensuring the registered moped is a moped, as well as a check to see that it is “fit for purpose”. But there are no plans to require mopeds to have regular WoF inspections, or for riders to take a training course or obtain a learner motorcycle licence.

We doubt these measures will make it less likely that restrictors are removed – or make much difference to the high number of inexperienced riders injuring themselves on our roads through lack of rider training.

If the police catch you with a non-compliant moped, you face $400 in fines for not having a current WoF and registration … plus another $400 if you’re riding without a motorcycle licence.
 

Our scooter trial

We tested the 50cc 2kW Daelim Cordi R moped, the “unrestricted” 4kW Aprilia SportCity 50 and the electric 2kW SynECO eCruiser in typical Wellington conditions.

We tried:

• running climbs up the long and winding Brooklyn Hill road, up the even more winding Ohiro Road and up Mount Victoria
• running on flat roads such as Adelaide Rd, Thorndon Quay, Jervois Quay and other city areas
• an uphill standing start on Oriental Bay’s severely steep Wilkinson Street.

Overall performance

The SportCity 50’s extra power made travelling a lot easier and it outperformed the other two scooters. The (electric) eCruiser performed similarly to the Cordi R and even outperformed it on one uphill run.

The uphill standing start was the most troublesome test for the Cordi R and the eCruiser. The Cordi R only just made it – it took several seconds to start moving forward before slowly accelerating to about 10km/h at the top.

The eCruiser had a half- to one-second delay before the motor kicked in – enough to start rolling back down the hill. Once the motor kicked in the scooter slowly gained momentum and crawled up the hill at 5 to 10km/h.

Riding experience

SportCity 50
The rigid chassis and stiff suspension made it feel very stable around corners, and its larger 14” wheels seemed to iron out some of the bumps in the road. The brakes were very powerful and its smooth throttle response made slow riding a doddle.

Few city streets have much run-off room and many cars driving around town exceed 50km/h. The SportCity 50 could comfortably keep up with traffic and we felt confident sitting in the middle of the lane. This wasn’t the case with the other two models, which struggled to keep up with traffic flow.

Cordi R
Its brakes provided good stopping power and gave good feel, its controls were easy to use, and it had a very smooth throttle response – ideal for slow-speed U-turns and walking-speed riding. Weighing just 77kg, it was agile and easy to lift on to its centre stand.

eCruiser
This accelerated well as we climbed the winding roads of Mount Victoria and easily handled the tight corners. We were able to maintain around 35km/h most of the way to the top. Coming back down, the scooter handled well at faster speeds and the front brakes had good stopping power.

But the model we tested had an electrical gremlin. When taking off from a standing start on the flat, the scooter sometimes quickly accelerated to 15-20km/h then wouldn’t go any faster. This could be dangerous when merging with traffic. We tried turning the key off for five seconds and then on again – and the scooter resumed full power. We had to do this twice.

After 33km of riding we suspected the eCruiser was losing power. The battery still seemed OK: the indicator showed one green light (approximately 75 percent charged). We headed for the office six kilometres away … but after two kilometres the scooter sulked and stopped – the battery gauge was red (approximately 25 percent charged).

We turned the ignition off and the scooter restarted. But it died again within 15 metres. It was impossible to maintain a safe speed on the road, so we limped home on the footpath at walking speed – and of course were questioned by a police officer (who smiled and let us continue).

This highlights the need for an accurate battery gauge. If we’d lost power in the Mount Victoria tunnel it would’ve been dangerous for us and inconvenient to hundreds of motorists.

There were a few other niggles with the eCruiser’s construction. The rear brake was a bit touchy, which could be dangerous for inexperienced riders. The centre stand often didn’t spring all the way up so had to be raised manually.

(See Going electric for a more detailed overview of the eCruiser.)

Scooters compared

Guide to the table
Price includes on-road costs. Tech bits except for top speed are from the supplier. Top speed is from our test.

Going electric

The eCruiser is a battery-operated scooter that runs on a 2kW electric motor (the motor is in the rear wheel hub). It’s made in China and is a modification of a petrol scooter design.

The controls and displays are the same as a petrol scooter’s but a battery gauge replaces the fuel gauge: lights indicate the volts available and go from green to yellow and red.

Unlike petrol scooters, it has no engine noise or vibration when “idling” or sitting at traffic lights. You hear only a faint whine when accelerating from a standing start – above 10km/h you hear only wind noise.

Battery

Most electric scooters run on lead-acid batteries, which take around 8 hours to charge, last around 500 charges and claim a range of around 50kms. The eCruiser uses lithium batteries. These charge in 2.5 to 3.5 hours, last around 3000 charges and claim a range of around 70km.

The lifespan of a lithium battery is claimed to be roughly 8 years if you use the scooter every day, compared with as little as one and a half years for a lead-acid battery. Lithium batteries are much more expensive – so the eCruiser costs around $5700 while some lead-acid models cost as little as $2500. Lithium batteries are around $2200 to replace; lead-acid are $500 to $600.

Charging

The eCruiser is charged by plugging it, via a battery charger, into an ordinary wall socket. The charger (about the size of two hardback novels) comes with the scooter.

A green light shows when the battery is fully charged. In our testing, a full charge took around 3 hours and cost 50c in power.

Running out of power on the eCruiser means you need to recharge it for at least half an hour to get going again – more if it’s not just a short distance. Petrol stations often have external power outlets. If you have a long enough extension cord, shops or cafes may let you use an hour of their power.

Paul Arnold of SynECO Systems says you need to plan when and where to charge the scooter, especially when travelling longer distances. “I tell people if you stop for half an hour and can plug it in, it’s worth doing to top up and extend your range.”

While the eCruiser’s full charge gave us only around 35km of usable power, we did plenty of hill climbing – and that uses a lot more power than riding on the flat. Most moped riders wouldn’t travel more than this in a day, so the distance per charge wouldn’t be a problem.

The charger and extension cord take up most of the under-seat storage of the scooter – so buying a top box is sensible for storing your helmet and carrying luggage.

Options

SynECO Systems sells an eRanger for the same price as the eCruiser we tested – both come in a range of colours. It also sells these models with the cheaper and shorter-lived lead-acid batteries for around $3900. Larger scooters are also available.

Several other brands of electric scooter are available, predominantly in Auckland and Wellington.

Servicing

Because the electric motor is so simple, the only ongoing service costs are brake pads, brake fluid and the occasional light bulb. Servicing and spare parts can be obtained through SynECO Systems.

Trade-off

Some petrol scooter brands cost half the price of the eCruiser, have a record of reliability, and have many dealers and service agents. But the eCruiser produces no emissions and costs just 50c to travel 50km in average conditions. The same distance would cost around $2 or more on a 50cc petrol scooter. Over a year, that could save around $700.
 

Buying tips

Over 50 brands of mopeds are available. Here’s how to narrow the list:

• Reputation: When in doubt, go with a known brand that’s been around for many years – it’s more likely to have spare parts and servicing.
• Dealer: Buy from a registered motor vehicle trader. Dealers hold spare parts, will service their models and are more likely to fulfil their warranty obligations. Dealers also tend to stock good-quality scooters: their reputation depends on it.
• Backyard operators: Steer clear of new scooters sold by private individuals using online auction websites. You’re unlikely to get spare parts or service backup.
• Online dangers: If you really must buy a new scooter on Trade Me, click on the “Buy Now” price. Don’t place a bid. If you bid you lose your rights under the Consumer Guarantees Act (see our internet auctions report for more information).
• Ride it: Make sure the scooter has enough power to climb hills and carry a typical load without difficulty. Also make sure you’re comfortable with the seating position, controls, brakes and suspension: does the construction feel cheap and flimsy or well-made?
• Research: Look online for the scooter’s specifications and check out scooter blog sites to see what riders say about the machines they’ve ridden and owned.
• Price: Don’t go for the cheapest option. Being able to buy a cheap scooter on Trade Me for $500-$1000 less than a known brand from a dealership is often an illusion: you can end up paying much more than that constantly fixing a poorly made scooter – and that’s if you find a mechanic to fix it.

Buying second-hand

Mopeds don’t require regular WoF checks, so buying second-hand can be riskier than buying new. You also have few protections in a private sale, making it almost impossible to get your money back if you buy a lemon. Paying for a pre-purchase inspection is worthwhile.

Most motorcycle shops will conduct a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified motorcycle mechanic for around $50 to $60. VTNZ and the AA don’t do pre-purchase inspections for motorcycles and scooters.

Your initial check

You can do some checking of your own before you get a full inspection. Check:

• for a service record – it’s a sign that the scooter has been maintained
• wheels and tyres (no dents or buckling, good tread) 
• front and rear suspension (smooth movement, no fluid leaks)
• brakes (pad thickness, no scouring on rotors, no fluid leaks) 
• controls and lights (are they in working order?)
• for any signs a crash may have damaged parts of the scooter – particularly the frame and steering 
• whether the engine has oil (run it until it gets hot: a four-stroke engine shouldn’t smoke from the exhaust; but a two-stroke should) 
• the temperature gauge (if it comes with one) – it shouldn’t go higher than three-quarters.

Are Chinese scooters any good?

Some Chinese-made scooters have a bad reputation in New Zealand, especially among mainstream motorcycle dealers. They've often been bought in an online action so there's no warranty or Consumer Guarantees Act protections. Many shops won’t service or repair this type of scooter because they don’t want to be held liable when they break down again.

Big brands such as Aprilia, Piaggio and Honda are now made in China. But these aren’t “Chinese” scooters as such because they’re made in those companies’ factories, to those companies’ specifications and quality-control standards. Look for a recognised brand if you're buying a Chinese-made scooter. Other good-quality scooters are made in Taiwan and Korea.

We hope the proposed pre-registration checks on mopeds will sort the safe from the not-so-safe models.
 

Staying safe

While testing the scooters, our experienced rider was almost knocked on to the road by three car drivers and a pedestrian. Two elderly ladies in a Rover changed lanes without indicating and nearly sideswiped the Cordi R, while several kilometres later a couple in a small Holden indicated right before suddenly diving into a car park on the left – again endangering the Cordi R.

The (bright red) SportCity 50 narrowly escaped being t-boned by a woman in a Mitsubishi leaving a shopping centre. Finally, a man dropped his mobile phone in the middle of the street and decided to try to pick it up just 20 metres in front of the eCruiser electric scooter. Sudden counter-steering saved the pedestrian, the scooter and the rider.

This highlights the dangers of riding scooters, the need for good protective riding gear, and the benefits of honing riding skills.

Safety tips

• Be seen. Wear bright clothing and a bright helmet to increase your visibility, and help avoid accidents.
• Wear good safety gear. A full-face helmet is more likely to protect your face in an accident than an open-face one (and it'll keep you from swallowing flies or bees on your travels). Gloves, a riding jacket and protective trousers are also advisable.
• Ride defensively. Assume other motorists haven't seen you.
• Avoid white lines and slick tar on wet roads.
• Maintain your scooter. Periodically check the safety features of your scooter, especially brakes, indicators, and lights.
• Practise. The more you ride, the more confident you'll get.
• Take a riding course. Many clubs such as the Auckland Motorcycle Club or Victoria Motorcycle Club hold rider-training days, and they can also put you in touch with other rider-training operators.

For more safety information, see our full Scooter safety report.

 

Report by Marc Wendelborn.