Health & beauty
Sewing machines
Introduction
Making your own clothes is back in fashion - we explain what to look for in a sewing machine.
Against the tide of cheap imports and outrageously priced "designer" clothing, the domestic seamstress is fighting back. We look at what you need to know so you don't get stitched up buying a sewing machine.
Note: This report is a buying guide only and doesn't contain test results.
Basic decisions
The first decision you need to make before buying a machine is: what will you use it for?
If the machine is simply going to be used for mending, hemming or sewing a set of curtains, don't be seduced by one with a large number of stitches and features. You'll end up paying for extras you may never use.
If you're a regular sewer and like making your own clothes, you might want to consider an electronic machine (see "Types of machine", below). Electronic models usually include automatic buttonholes, an overlocking stitch and a "blind hemming" stitch which helps you achieve a more professional look.
Experienced sewers need to sort out if they're using their machines for craft (embroidery and quilting), sewing, or a combination of the two. If your machine is for craft, the number and type of stitches are important. Top-of-the-range machines allow you to design your own stitches and access images from your computer that you can embroider on to fabric. You may want a machine with a long arm, as this makes it easier to handle bulkier items.
Types of machine
- Mechanical: The cheapest machine to buy, but requires you to do most of the work. They range in price from about $290 to $800 and can include features such as four- or six-step buttonholes, an automatic needle threader and a range of stitches. They also tend to have the more traditional bobbin cartridges, rather than the "drop in" magnetic bobbins commonly found in electronic machines.
- Electronic: These have similar features to mechanical machines plus automatic stitch settings and buttonholes, and other electronic bells and whistles. You'll pay from about $500 to $3500. The more expensive models feature craft or embroidery stitches and automatic thread cutters. Some have a knee attachment that allows you to operate the machine with your knee rather than your foot.
- Computerised: These machines have software that lets you scan your own designs or download designs from your computer. Once the machine is threaded, it will automatically embroider the design and only stops if the needle breaks or the bobbin runs low. These machines can cost up to $13,000.
Buying advice
Try before you buy
Whatever your level of sewing, try before you buy. Thread up the machine and sew a range of fabrics: denim, cotton and silk. Try different stitches (straight stitch, zigzag, stretch stitch, buttonhole) and check their quality. A machine with good tension will produce nice, even stitches and sew well forward and backward.
Try sewing curved seams and sewing two different fabrics together to see whether they feed evenly through the machine. Repeat the exercise using two pieces of the same fabric. If they don't sew well, try adjusting the pressure on the presser-foot.
When you're test-driving machines, other features you might want to consider are:
- the range of stitches
- an automatic buttonholer
- an automatic needle threader
- a speed selector for different speed settings
- a knee attachment that allows you to operate the machine with your knee rather than your foot.
Where to buy
Specialist sewing shops sell the major brands. The exception is Bernina machines: shops that sell Bernina will only stock this brand.
Noel Leeming, Harvey Norman and other large chain stores sell machines at the lower end of the market (under $500) but may not have the range of parts and accessories of specialist sewing stores.
Best brands?
The major brands of sewing machines sold here are Bernina, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Pfaff and Singer. We haven't tested sewing machines but other consumer organisations have. In the US, Bernina and Janome machines outperformed other electronic models in recent tests by Consumer Reports.
Warranties, parts and service
Check warranties, accessories and parts are available. Manufacturers' warranties can range anywhere between one and 10 years. Find out what the warranty covers and where the repairs will be done. Can you return it to the shop you bought it from or do you need to take it to a repair agent?
Your normal Consumer Guarantees Act (CGA) rights apply to sewing machines that you've bought new for private use. So you have the right to repair, refund or replacement for a number of years, since most machines have a long working life.
Buying second-hand
Buying second-hand can be worth considering. If you're interested in a second-hand machine, make sure you "test drive" it before you buy. Only buy if the machine looks tidy and well cared for. Make sure it has all the accessories you want and they're in working order.
It would also be worth checking with the manufacturer to see if parts are still available for the model. If not, you may run into problems if something needs replacing.
If you buy from a second-hand dealer and then discover the machine's faulty, you're covered by the CGA. The extent of cover and redress will depend on the age of the machine and what you paid for it.
If you buy privately, you're not covered by the CGA. But the Electricity Act does come into play. Under the Act, all electrical appliances for sale must be safe - whether they're new or second-hand, bought privately or from a dealer.
Expert advice
Glen Parkinson of Wellington Sewing Services had this to say. "The best advice I can give is don't buy just on price. Keep in mind that a cheaper machine will not handle denim or finer fabrics, and you don't want to buy a machine only to get frustrated because it doesn't do everything you want. So think about what you want to use it for and how long you intend to keep it."
Features
- Type of bobbin: The bobbin carries the bottom thread that forms the stitch by looping together with the top one that's threaded through the needle. Front-loading is the more traditional style of bobbin (pictured below left). You remove the bobbin and shuttle (its casing) from the front of the machine.
With top-loading bobbins (below right) the shuttle is stationary and held in by a magnet. These bobbins are generally see-through, so you can see how much thread you have left.
- Automatic needle threader: The name says it all - it saves threading the needle by hand. Some people find using a needle threader more fiddly than hand threading. But with a little practice, you'll usually be able to perfect your technique.
- Presser-foot control: A presser-foot control enables the force applied by the presser foot to be adjusted to allow for use with thicker or thinner fabrics. The presser foot is the part that holds the two pieces of fabric together for sewing.
- Speed selector: This allows you to set the speed of the machine. It can be a useful function for many people, such as beginners who want to slow down while they're learning.
- Tension adjustment: If you're using different types of thread or fabric, you may need to adjust the thread's tension. Being able to adjust both the upper and lower threads is an advantage for more experienced sewers wanting to do machine embroidery.
- Foot control: Look for a foot control that's a decent size. Some of the smaller lightweight ones can slide from under your foot while you're sewing.
Learning to sew
If you're new to sewing or just want to brush up your skills, weekend or night classes are often available at community education centres and high schools. These classes are popular and can be a good way of getting some hands-on experience before you fork out for your own machine.
Fees vary depending on the length and level of the course. Course fees we compared in the three main centres were under $100.
Some specialist sewing shops also run classes. Check with shops in your area about what they offer.
More information
- Contact details for adult education providers: www.aceaotearoa.org.nz
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