Health & beauty

Sports shoes

Updated 08 Oct 2008

Introduction

If you've shopped for sports shoes lately, you'll know how confusing it can be. Our guide cuts through the jargon to help you find a shoe with the perfect fit.

The best shoes for you aren't necessarily the most expensive ones in the shop. We guide you through finding out what type of feet you have, the different types of shoes, how to buy, and how to look after your sports shoes.

Plus, watch our video: buying running shoes.

Sports shoe types

Here's a quick break-down of the different sports shoe types: it's important to get the right one for your activity.

Cross-trainers

Jack of all trades and master of none. Cross-trainers are good for some social sports and the odd game of tennis - and for gym sessions that require a lot of lateral movement. A good cross-trainer will have a shock-absorbing heel, a broad-based sole for control and stability, and enough support to allow you to move laterally.

Racing flats

Ultra light-weight shoes. Racing flats differ from normal runners because they've little or no cushioning in the heel. They're for serious runners in long-distance races: their lightweight material and lack of support make them unsuitable for day-to-day use.

Running shoes

Light-weight shoes with good grip and cushioning in the mid-sole. Runners are designed to help you move in a straight line: the front of the shoe should flex substantially to let you push off with the ball of your foot while jogging. Women's running shoes have a narrower heel and wider toe box than men's.

Court shoes

Designed specifically for sports performed on hard surfaces such as gymnasium floors. Court shoes have flat soles made of hard rubber that doesn't mark. The uppers are often made of durable synthetic leather. Court shoes are not suitable for jogging long distances. The flat sole provides no support and can place extra strain on your Achilles tendon. However, the low profile will help prevent you from rolling your ankle when changing direction quickly.

Walking shoes

When walking, your foot is in contact with the ground up to 50 percent more than when running. Walking shoes need to cushion your feet, let them extend properly, and keep them from rolling excessively from side-to-side. Gel- or air-filled pockets in heels or at the forefoot are common and some shoes add thermoplastic under the arch to keep the feet steady.

What are your feet like?

Consider your foot: 33 joints, 23 muscles, more than 150 ligaments. When you run, your feet absorb a force between two and three times your body weight. Over 10km that force is applied 9500 times. So it pays to wear suitable runners.

The "best" running shoe isn't necessarily the most expensive in the shop. We all run differently - and your shoe should reflect your running style. So before you get too excited about those bright blue kicks, take a step back.

Pronators and supinators

The shape of your foot helps determine how you run or walk. A well-crafted foot will strike the ground on its outside edge and roll inwards to disperse the impact over a greater area. Every stride is the same: strike, roll; strike, roll. This is called a neutral foot type.

Many of us have feet that either roll too far inwards or don't roll at all. Those who roll too far inwards are pronators (sometimes called "over-pronators"). The rest of you rabble, whose feet don't roll in enough, are supinators ("under-pronators").

Sports shoes are split to represent those different foot types. Pronators are fitted with "stability" or "motion control" shoes that prevent them rolling too far inwards and placing unnecessary strain on leg muscles and joints. Supinators get "cushioned" shoes to reduce the jarring that would otherwise occur when their foot doesn't roll.

For a basic test of your foot type, wet your feet and make footprints on a hard surface like concrete. Supinators tend to have high arches, while pronators are often flat-footed. Neutral runners fall somewhere in between.

Over-pronators have flat feet (low arches), which shows up as a complete outline of the wet foot (left).
Supinators have high arches, which produce a thin line between the outer edge of the forefoot and the heel (right).
A medium-sized arch indicates you are somewhere in between.

Checklist: what to look for

Here's what to look for in a sports shoe

Midsole

The midsole provides most of the cushioning. A layer of padding between the insole and the outsole provides shock-absorbing protection for the foot - it absorbs almost all of the impact when you're running or walking. It's made of shock absorbing foam, and may incorporate gel or air-sacks and plastic torsion supports.

The midsole is often the part of the shoe that wears out first. If you're tough on your shoes, ask for a pair with a midsole that will last. You can compare midsole softness among different shoes by squeezing the midsole with your thumb at both the heel and forefoot - the greater the indentation, the softer the midsole.

Remember, though, that a soft midsole will compress and grow flat faster than more rigid material.

Cross-trainer Should be well cushioned with an even density throughout.
Walking shoe Should have a relatively low midsole profile since a walker's cushioning needs are only moderate.
Running shoe Should be firm, especially for heavy runners, and extra firm on the inside edge.

Eyelets

Extra eyelets at the top provide a snug fit for your ankle

Stitching

Stitching should be secure, even and straight, and not exposed in areas that get rough action. There shouldn't be any bulky seams or gummy adhesives.

Fusion welding involves bonding materials with heat and glue, rather than stitching. The idea is to increase durability without adding weight. It's worth looking out for.

Weight

Weight can vary significantly depending on brand and type of shoe. Be guided by a mix of common sense and your own preferences. If you're going to be pounding the pavement or go to the gym every day, don't get for anything too light or you probably won't get the support you need. If you're using cross-trainers just for casual walking around, they don't need to be heavy.

Tongue

Cushioned tongues help disperse shock, but the cushioning shouldn't be so big it makes the laces too hard to tie tightly.

Mid-foot shank

An insert found in the mid-part of the sole to stop excessive twisting. The stronger the shank, the more motion control it gives the shoe.

Cross-trainer Look for an especially strong shank.
Walking shoe Not so important.
Running shoe Look for an especially strong shank.

Heel counter

A firm, usually plastic cup that grips the heel to keep from moving around in the shoe. A heel counter which doesn't hug the heel will affect stability and can lead to injury. All sports shoes need a firm heel counter.

Heel tab

The soft bit at the top of the heel counter. It should have a deep notch to allow your achilles heel to sit comfortably when you exercise.

Toe box

The tip of the shoe. It should be roomy enough for your toes to wiggle easily, and have a thumb's width gap between the end of your longest toe and the end of the shoe.

Cross-trainer Your toes need enough space for side-to-side movement.
Walking shoe Your toes need to be able to flex up and spread out during walking.
Running shoe There should be enough flexibility in the toe area to allow sufficient push off.

Upper toe box

Synthetic mesh allows your shoe to breath

In-sole

The shoe layer nearest your foot. It provides extra shock absorption and arch support. The in-sole is removable and washable.

Outsole

The hard, patterned part of the sole that hits the ground. It may be blown rubber (soft) or carbon rubber (harder or more durable). Factors to consider include durability, flexibility, tread depth, grip, weight, breadth of the sole, breadth of the heel.

Cross-trainer You want durability, grip and balance. Look for a solid rubber outsole that isn't too heavy. If you're using the shoes for court sports or aerobics, make sure they have very good grip.
Walking shoe Look for a durable carbon rubber outsole. Blown rubber outsoles will reduce the weight, but wear out more quickly.
Running shoe Look for a carbon rubber outsole or if you have a high arched foot, look for a softer, lighter outsole with a greater flexibility.

Flex grooves

Flex grooves are cut into the outsole to help the shoe bend and flex during exercise.

Cross-trainer Flex grooves should be cut into the forefoot.
Walking shoe Either the midsole material should be flexible or flex grooves should be cut into the sole.
Running shoe Look for flex grooves which allow the shoe to bend during running.

Technological advances

The sceptic in me wonders if shoe terms like "motion control" and "cushioning" are simply useful marketing tools. It wasn't so long ago great coaches like Arthur Lydiard encouraged athletes to train barefoot to strengthen leg muscles.

And, against the grain, Nike released a range of shoes which are supposed to emulate barefoot running - Nike Free.

Not just marketing

While podiatrist Anne Riggir agrees splitting sports shoes into types has made for great marketing, she says technological changes to shoes have occurred for a reason:

"A large proportion of the injuries I see are caused by incorrect footwear. For example, people who run in shoes that cause them to over-pronate can experience severe arch pain (plantar fasciitis), Achilles tendonitis and shin pains."

The irony of technological advances is that the wrong pair of expensive running shoes might cause more harm than good. Anne says: "With the way that shoes have changed now, you can either have a shoe that's not supportive enough or one that is too supportive. People can set themselves up for problems if they buy the most supportive shoe in the shop to counter mild over-pronation."

Many podiatrists (including Anne) work with specialist sports shoe stores to offer comprehensive fitting services. For example, the Shoe Clinic website lists nine podiatrists and seven physiotherapists in the Wellington region alone.

We spoke with Dr Daniel Poratt, head of podiatry at the Auckland University of Technology. He isn't associated with a specialist sports shoe shop. He agrees the assessment tools used by some companies (such as video analysis) can be useful. The tools allow the consumer to see how different shoes affect their feet while running.

He says "it's important to consider cushioning, stability, comfort, fit and style" when buying a running shoe. There's some evidence to suggest that poor footwear may contribute to foot and ankle injuries.

Buying advice

Where should you buy?

You've got a lot of choice when it comes to shoe shops:

Specialist shops

Specialist sports shoe shops have trained staff and special equipment, including treadmills and video and computer analysis, to diagnose your needs. But the shoes are likely to be more expensive, and they don't always get it right.

Sports shops

Sports shops come in two varieties. The more traditional sports shop will probably have trained staff, although their expertise is likely to be a peg or two down on the specialists'. The other sort (Rebel Sport, for example) is more focused on discount shopping. It's likely to have a very good range of shoes at good prices, but almost non-existent service.

General shoe shops

General shoe shops, conversely, may have staff who know a lot about shoes and feet, but may lack the range to offer good choices for you.

Bargain outlets

Bargain outlets like The Warehouse and direct-to-public discounters are at the bottom of the heap. They do not have trained staff and are unlikely to have good shoes either. Cheap shoes may not last for long, and do not usually have a lot of the basic cushioning, comfort and stability factors that are available in a mid-priced shoe.

Buying advice

Get a diagnosis from either a podiatrist or specialist sports shoe shop for your first fitting. After that, you may not need to use a specialist store again, unless you think your running requirements have changed.
If you do visit a specialist store, don't stand idly by during the recommendations. Let them know if you've got a price range in mind - and don't assume the first recommendation is the best. A shoe might have all the right features from a biomechanical aspect, but it still has to fit and feel right to you.
Running-shoe retailers should ask about the frequency and distances that you're planning to run; the type of exercise you're planning to do; and on what surface you plan to do it.
Buy a specific sports shoe for a particular sport. For example, runners aren't designed for tennis. The outer sole will wear quickly if you use them for sharp lateral movements and the carbon rubber tread might mark the court. Conversely, court shoes are not suitable for jogging long distances. (See Sports shoe types.)
Go shopping in the late afternoon: your feet tend to swell as the day progresses. Get your shoes fitted when they're fully swollen.
Bring along an old pair of training shoes - were they good or bad? An experienced salesperson will be able to judge your needs from the wear on the old pair.
See if you can find a store that'll let you buy the shoes, jog briefly on a treadmill at home or in the gym, and return them if they don't feel right.

Does price matter?

Choice, the Australian consumer organisation, cut three pairs of mid-ranged runners in half to examine their components. All three pairs were "stability" shoes: there was a similar level of construction quality across the brands.

However, there was a noticeable difference between low-end (under $120) and mid-range ($150 to $220) shoes within the same brand. Differences were slight once you got past the mid-range point. For example, shoes under $120 may only have basic EVA mid-soles (EVA is a foam-like rubber) whereas most shoes over $150 will have proprietary cushioning technology such as Nike Air or Asics Gel.

Shoe Clinic owner Hamish French says that once you hit $200, price becomes irrelevant: "Depending on your gait, it might be that a $200 shoe is the most correct shoe for you in the shop. There's often no need to spend more."

The bottom line is that buying the most expensive pair of shoes doesn't automatically mean you'll get the pair that's right for you.

Shoe maintenance

Now that you've bought them, make sure you treat your new shoes right.

Always wear socks while exercising - and air the shoes properly between runs. That way, you'll help prevent the build up of bacteria and odour.
Podiatrist Anne Riggir recommends shaking an anti-fungal powder into your shoes if you've suffered from athlete's foot or other skin irritations.
Whatever you do, don't put your running shoes through the washing machine. Adhesives and foam materials like EVA will break down quickly in a spin cycle.
If you really need to clean your shoes, do it by hand. Use warm water, a little soap and a soft brush or rag. Rinse them well, then remove the in-soles and laces, and let the shoes dry naturally (away from heaters, fires and tumble dryers).

Runners will on average last between 900 and 1100 kilometres. In most cases, the mid-sole will wear out long before the outer sole - and the shoe will lose its corrective qualities. You may notice some new aches and pains in your feet as a result.

To check if your shoe has reached the end of its natural life, hold the toe and heel in your hands and twist gently in opposite directions. If the shoe twists easily, it probably means the mid-sole has lost its stability.

Report by Luke Harrison