Checklist

Here's what to consider when buying an LCD, LED or plasma television.

Resolution

Confused by the numbers? It's not too complicated once you know what they mean. The numbers refer to pixels, so 1920x1080 means a screen 1920 pixels wide and 1080 pixels high – the higher the number, the better the resolution.

As screen sizes are standardised, so too are resolutions. They’re often abbreviated to only the vertical number: for example, 1920x1080 becomes 1080.

The letters that follow the numbers are p and i. The p stands for progressive and i for interlaced. These are the types of scanning used to refresh the picture on the screen. Progressive scanning is usually better, because interlaced can create a flickering effect at lower refresh rates.

720i is the lowest resolution that’s still considered to be HD. But a “full” HD screen is 1080p, and this is the resolution we recommend when you’re buying a new TV. We no longer recommend TVs below this resolution.

User test
To do your own "user test" take a favourite DVD (or two) to the shop to check the picture. Try to watch a "talking head" so you can check skin tones and the quality of finer details such as hair texture. Also check out a nature scene, for any bias toward red or green colours. Be wary if you have to set a control to maximum to get the best picture.

Check action scenes – can the set keep up with fast movement?

Refresh rate

Something else to watch out for is the refresh rate, quoted in Hz. The Hz number refers to the number of images per second the screen can show. It’s true that the faster the rate, the better the look of fast-moving images (like sport or video games) on the screen. However, don't be upsold to a much more expensive TV on this alone.

Built-in Freeview digital tuner

Between 2012 and the end of 2013, the old analogue TV signal will be turned off. In its place is the Freeview digital signal. If you haven't got Freeview (or Sky TV), you'll have no more free-to-air TV once the analogue signal is turned off.

Most (but not all) new TVs have a built-in Freeview digital tuner. If you buy a new TV without the built-in tuner, you'll have to pay hundreds of dollars for a set-top box to receive Freeview.  Ask if the TV has a built-in Freeview tuner or "Freeview inside" before buying. (Our Digital TV guide has more information.)

Size

When comparing your options, make sure you're clear on how big you need the TV to be – you don't want to be squinting at a screen that's too small or not seeing the full picture on a screen that's too big.

A useful rule of thumb is for the screen to measure a third of the distance from where you’ll sit to watch it. So if you have a smallish room and your couch is 8-feet (2.4m) from the TV, then the best screen size is 32 inches (81cm). If you have a bigger room, you’ll need to get a bigger TV.

Also note that TVs in stores look smaller than they will in your living room. You may bring home your new 50" TV that seemed reasonable in the shop only to find it's far too large for your house.

• CRT televisions were measured diagonally across the screen. This measurement was typically given as cmv (centimetres viewable).
• LCD and plasma screens are promoted using quaint old-fashioned inches. If you want to do your own conversion, multiply the inches by 2.54 to get the cmv. Or use our table (below). 

Viewing angle

On LCD sets check how the picture looks if you step to the side or move up and down. Viewing angles have improved, but some models still have a dimmer picture when not viewed centrally – important if several people are watching at once.

Brightness

This is usually referred to in units of measurement called candelas per square metre (cd/m2) or sometimes nits (1 nit = 1 cd/m2). The more nits, the brighter the picture. TVs are usually turned up very bright in stores to compete with other TVs around them. It’s unlikely you’ll need this level of brightness at home.

Contrast ratio

Check the contrast ratio – the difference between the brightest white and deepest black the screen can produce. You'll see some pretty impressive numbers (such as 25,000:1 and more) in brochures; but 600:1 is usually fine. Let your eyes be the guide. Take a DVD with clear blacks and whites with you, and get the shop to play it.

Also take a good look at the "depth" of the blacks on various screens. Good screens will have more uniformity with their blacks and smooth gradients from black to white.

Sound quality

When checking the sound, listen for clear high notes – they shouldn't sound tinny or harsh. Mid-tones should be full-bodied and voices should be clear. Bass should be more than just a booming sound, and it shouldn't distort. Check where the speakers are placed, as speakers facing to the sides can produce a muffled sound.

Every time we test flat-panel TV sets we find many with average to poor sound quality. As manufacturers make the sets slimmer and reduce the edging that holds the screen in, they make decent sound increasingly difficult.

There's really only one answer: an external sound system. A relatively cheap home-theatre system will improve the sound of any TV we've tested. And true surround sound gives you a much more satisfying movie experience. We’ve also found an amplifier and speakers connected to a TV has produced better sound and cost significantly less than many expensive home-theatre systems. See our test of home-theatre speakers for some good options.

Connections

TV screens aren't always supplied with a full range of cables. Talk to the retailer about the best setup for you, and make sure you get this sorted before you take delivery of the TV. Make sure you get the right cables and connectors for your needs: your DVD player/recorder, home-theatre receiver, Sky decoder, cable decoder, camcorder, and so on.

For digital cables like HDMI cables and optical audio cables, remember there is little to no difference between an expensive cable and a cheap one, so don't be pressured into buying an expensive gold-plated version.

Camcorder users should look for easily accessed front or side connections. That means you won't have to fumble around at the back (or even worse, un-mount the screen from the wall) to plug in.

For details (and pictures of the plugs), see our illustrated guide to Television connection options.

If the connection challenge is too much for you, ask how much it would cost to have the television installed.

Internet TV

While many manufacturers are trumpeting 3D as the game changer in TVs, the real change is accessing the internet. Many of our recently-tested TVs have an ethernet connection, and some have built in WiFi (or the capability to use WiFi with an extra attachment). Sony has been strongly pushing TV internet access and has developed cameras that sit on top of your screen for Skype phone calling.

While these internet-through-the-TV systems compete well with Apple TV and other set-top boxes, they don’t compare yet with a full media-centre PC. You do need a keyboard and mouse beside your remote control, but it’s worth it for all the extra content you get through the TV.

Remote control

Look for a remote where the most frequently selected buttons (volume, channel selector, standby, and mute) are easy to use and placed prominently. It's best if these buttons are a different shape or size from the rest, so you can locate them by touch only.

On-screen menus and instructions

Check the on-screen menu to see how easy it is to read, and whether you'll be able to follow the instructions. As well, look for a manual with clearly labelled diagrams and step-by-step instructions, written in plain English.

Positioning

Ask about the cost of a wall mount (if that's where you want your screen). And think about where all those cables will go! To make it all look clean and tidy, the cables may have to be put inside your walls – usually at further cost. You'll need an electrician to fit an electrical outlet behind the screen and to install inside the wall all the other connections.

Child lock

A child lock disables specific channels or locks the on-board buttons, useful if you have small children.