CFL and LED bulbs are a green form of lighting, but do they last the distance? We've tested both types of bulbs, and look at how much you could save by changing from old-style incandescents.
Bottom line: This 60W-equivalent LED bulb has OK light output and excellent switching life. But like most LEDs it’s non-dimmable.
Bottom line: This CFL bulb has excellent light output and excellent switching life. But its warm-up time is poor.
Bottom line: This CFL bulb has good light output and excellent switching life. But its warm-up time is just OK.
Bottom line: This 50W-equivalent LED spot has OK light output and excellent switching life – and its dimmable.
Bottom line: This 35W-equivalent LED spot has excellent switching life – but very poor light output. Like most LEDs it’s non-dimmable.
Bottom line: This 40W-equivalent LED bulb has very good light output and excellent switching life. But like most LEDs it’s non-dimmable.
Bottom line: This 35W-equivalent LED spot has excellent switching life – but poor light output. Like most LEDs it’s non-dimmable.
Bottom line: This CFL bulb has good light output and good switching life. But its warm-up time is poor.
Bottom line: This CFL bulb has good light output and excellent switching life. Its warm-up time is good, too.
Bottom line: This CFL bulb has very good light output and excellent switching life. Its warm-up time is good, too.
Bottom line: This CFL bulb has OK light output and very good switching life. But its warm-up time is poor.
Bottom line: This CFL bulb has very good light output and excellent switching life. But its warm-up time is just OK.
Bottom line: This CFL bulb has OK light output and very good switching life. It has a excellent warm up time and is not energy star rated.
Bottom line: This CFL bulb has OK light output and very good switching life. And its warm-up time is excellent.
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A few years ago, LEDs were confined to the display panel of your clock radio. Now they’re a viable option for almost every lighting task.
Our guide illuminates how to find the right LED for you. We’ve surveyed the market to let you know what’s available, what bulb’s right for a particular job and which LEDs give the best value for money.
The CFLs were mainly spiral tubes but there were also 3 “stick” (U-tube) types. The spiral shape has largely taken over the home-CFL market because in most fittings it gives a more even distribution of light.
This is the third time we've tested CFLs. In all 3 tests we’ve found that good-quality CFLs are brighter, last far longer and use much less electricity than old-school incandescent bulbs. This test’s findings were no different … although our results also show a wide variation in performance between CFLs.
We wanted to see if the CFLs were as “bright” as the bulbs they replaced. So we put 2 samples of all the CFLs into a special test rig and compared the total light output of each model with the averaged light output from 5 100W incandescent bulbs of different brands. This “incandescent average” figure formed our baseline – and the relative light output of each CFL shows its performance against the baseline.
The light output of almost all the bulbs in our test was satisfactory – only 4 produced less light than our “incandescent average” baseline.
The GE Entice had the highest light output – 46 percent brighter than our baseline. It was followed by the Envirolux (37 percent brighter) and the GE Tiny Spiral (34 percent brighter).
When they're switched on, it takes a while for CFLs to warm up to full brightness. We tracked the light output of the bulbs, noting how long they took to reach 90 percent of their maximum brightness.
The best models took 15 seconds and the slowest 2½ minutes to reach 90 percent of their maximum brightness.
How much the warm-up time matters depends on where the CFL is being used. For a hallway light that's switched on once a day and stays on, it doesn't matter. But where the light will be switched on often – such as in a pantry or toilet – the delay could be really annoying.
We put 3 samples of each of the CFLs into a rig which switched them on for 5 minutes then off for 5 minutes. It did this 6000 times – more than 2 months of on-off cycling which equates to about 7 years average use. The bulbs were continuously monitored so that we could tell if and when they failed.
11 models had no failures during the 6000 on-off cycles.
A $6.50 20W CFL running an average of 3 hours per day will pay for itself in less than 4 months. The longer the CFL lasts, the more you save.
MEPS and Energy Star In October 2012 minimum energy performance standards (MEPS) for CFLs were introduced. Because old stock is allowed to be run out, our test had a mixture of older CFL bulbs and the new MEPS-compliant models.
Energy Star qualified bulbs (with the blue Energy Star mark) are the most energy-efficient available – and this translates to lower running costs. 3 of our test bulbs were Energy Star models.
The first type was GLS (general lighting service) bulbs in 6.5-8 and 10-11 watt sizes. These are equivalent in light output to 40-60W old-school incandescent bulbs. One of the LED bulbs was dimmable.
The second type was MR16 (50mm diameter) bulbs for spotlights. These were further divided into 230-volt units (GU10 base) and 12-volt units (GU5.3 base) – both of which are replacements for 35-50W halogen spots. One of the 12-volt bulbs was dimmable.
We tested 3 of each bulb and averaged the test results for each.
To test if the light output of the LEDs was as good as incandescent bulbs and halogen spots, we measured the light output of five incandescent 40W bulbs and averaged the results. We did the same for 5 60W and 75W incandescent bulbs. We then followed a similar procedure for the halogen spotlights.
Once these baselines were established we compared each LED bulb with its incandescent or halogen equivalent.
The model-to-model light outputs varied substantially. The GLS LED bulbs were all “brighter” than their incandescent counterparts and the Panasonic LDAHV8L27H2 had over twice the light output.
The spotlights were different – only 2 of the 12-volt LED bulbs had a higher light output than their equivalent halogen spots. The rest of the LED bulbs, both 230 and 12 volt, were disappointing. The lighting industry has more work to do to make these LEDs a true drop-in replacement for halogen spots.
An incandescent bulb lasts for around 1000 hours, a CFL for around 5000 to 8000 hours, but most LEDs are claimed to last at least 15,000 hours. We simply can’t test for that long. User experience will tell if those claimed lifespans are correct.
LEDs run much cooler than incandescent bulbs. But that’s not the end of the story. LEDs have electronic components in the base of the bulb – and if these components (or the LED chip itself) get too hot (over 60°C), the light output decreases and the bulb may fail early on.
LEDs should only be installed into ventilated fittings where air can move through the fitting. Where LEDs don’t last the distance, the most likely culprit is heat – they don’t like getting too warm.
To get some idea of whether the LED bulbs would last, we put three examples of each bulb in a special test rig that (under computer control) switched them on and then off 12,000 times. There were no failures.
When we last tested CFL bulbs in 2013 using the same rig but only 6000 on-off switching cycles, 18 of our 60 CFLs failed during this test.
An LED bulb can pay for itself with the savings it makes in electricity consumption.
Let’s compare a mid-range LED to a standard incandescent bulb. The LED has the same brightness as a 60 watt incandescent while only drawing 9.5 watts. The LED costs $18 and has an expected lifespan of 15,000 hours, while the equivalent 60 watt incandescent bulb costs 50 cents but lasts for 1000 hours. If the light is on for three hours each day the incandescent will use $17.08 worth of electricity in a year, compared to $2.70 for the LED. That’s a saving of $14.38 per year.
The LED will have paid for itself in a little over a year. It will then keep going for another 12 years if used for three hours every day, while the incandescent bulb will need to be replaced every year. These figures show you shouldn’t wait for your incandescent bulbs to blow – it’s more cost effective to replace them with LEDs now.
Likewise a ceiling full of 35W halogen spotlights (12 bulbs) running for 4 hours per day would cost $153 a year to run. 12 6W LED equivalents would cost just over $26 to run.
Switch on an LED bulb and it’ll be at full brightness almost instantly – about the same time as a standard incandescent. CFLs can take up to 2 minutes to warm up to full brightness.
The days of a light bulb starkly hanging on a cord in the centre of a room are long gone. Nowadays you have a vast choice of lighting products, increasingly using various energy-efficient lighting technologies. But which products work best - in what parts of the house?
The lighting requirements of the rooms in our houses vary - depending on what the room is used for. Different light levels are required in various parts of the house – and even within some rooms. The colour of the light is also important – it can change the mood of a room and can make a difference to dining, reading and other activities.
Choosing the right lighting products can also save money on your power bills.
You need intense light to read or to do close-up tasks, but if you lit your whole lounge to that level the glare would be uncomfortable.
An easier approach would be relatively soft background lighting using ‘warm white’ LEDs or to create a relaxing mood. You can also use dimmable LEDs to provide the flexibility to set the mood for any occasion – but make sure you have an LED-compatible dimmer.
You need moderate light levels, but lights in these locations are likely to be left on for many hours, especially in winter, so it’s important to use energy-efficient bulbs. The long lifespan of LEDs makes them a great option for hard-to-reach places such as high-ceilinged hallways or above staircases.
If you’re retrofitting LEDs into spotlights or downlights, it’s better to replace the entire fitting with a dedicated LED downlight fitting, instead of just changing the bulb. Just replacing the bulb with an LED will often overheat the LED and shorten its life.
For a kitchen you need background lighting (brighter than in the lounge) because a higher level of shadow-free light is required – so you can see in the cupboards. Extra task lighting will make sure bench tops, stoves and walk-in pantries are well lit.
Take care when installing energy efficient lights directly above a sinks or stovetops. LEDs and CFLs have small circuit boards in their base which can short if exposed to large amounts of steam. Ensure that the fitting adequately encloses the base of the bulb, or use new generation halogen bulbs.
A relaxing bath with soft lighting is one of life’s pleasures. But not being able to see to shave or put on make-up is not. You need moderate background lighting, and brighter, directional lighting for mirrors. The light should shine on your face - not on the mirror.
To achieve this blend of a functional yet relaxing space consider using separate switching for different lights or adding a dimmer to the main lighting. There are now efficient bulb replacement options for most bathroom lights and an ever increasing range of stylish fittings designed for both efficiency and good looks.
Light fittings above a shower and tub should be steam-proof. If you’re installing LED fittings make sure they are rated for damp locations.
Outdoor lighting can range from a simple porch light to spot lights for lighting up deck or entertainment areas, or to create dramatic effects for illuminating driveways, paths and garden areas. For lights likely to burn for a long time, use energy-efficient options in suitable outdoor fittings.
There are now LED floodlights available which match the brightness of their halogen equivalents. Keep an eye out for PAR38 LEDs when replacing your outdoor security lights.
Research has shown that the average home has 30 light fittings but only 6 are fitted with energy-efficient bulbs.
Lighting costs the average household $220 per year – about 12 percent of its electricity bill. Because lighting demand is higher during winter evenings, improving lighting efficiency reduces the demand on our electricity distribution infrastructure – and lowers your electricity bill.
Our testing has shown that good LEDs and CFLs are just as bright, or brighter, than the incandescent bulbs they replace. We also showed that name-brand bulbs last very well when switched on and off frequently.
Most energy-efficient lights fall into 3 categories: CFLs, halogens and LEDs.
Places where the lights are switched often
Our switching test showed that LEDs could stand being switched on and off repeatedly over more than 12,000 cycles. That means LEDs are suitable for walk-in wardrobes, toilets, bathrooms and kitchens – places where the lights are often switched on and off.
Lights with dimmers
If an LED’s packaging says it is ‘dimmable’ then it’s compatible with standard incandescent dimmers. Dimmable CFLs are also available.
If your house has recessed downlights with incandescent or halogen bulbs, it is better to replace the entire fitting with a dedicated LED downlight fitting, instead of just changing the bulb. Just replacing the bulb with an LED is likely to overheat the LED and shorten its life. In addition, most older downlight fittings require generous clearances to ceiling insulation and can allow draughts through the hole in the ceiling lining. Modern dedicated LED downlight fittings combine energy efficient lighting with better airtightness and insulation can be abutted to or even laid over them. You will need an electrician to install them for you.
For non-recessed fittings, retrofitting LED bulbs is cheaper and easier than installing dedicated LED fittings, but remember to check you get the same base type and a similar shape, brightness, colour temperature and beam angle.
Don’t like the look of a spiral CFL? New LED bulbs look almost identical to old incandescents.
Energy-efficient bulbs also come in special shapes (such as candles) and smaller sizes (for use in chandeliers and other decorative fittings).
LEDs and CFLs with a ‘warm-white’ colour temperature provide a much nicer light to read by than halogens or bulbs which produce a cooler light.
LEDs and CFLs are available at most supermarkets, hardware stores, and specialised lighting and electrical shops. Hardware chains will have a wider range of the more specialised styles but for that even harder-to-get bulb try specialist lighting shops.
Wattage doesn’t tell you how bright a light is - it only tells you how much energy the light bulb is using to create the light. New energy efficient bulbs have lumens on the packaging, which are the measure of the bulb's light output.
Reflector bulbs come in mysterious sizes. In the R-series (which has names like R80 and R63) the number is the diameter of the bulb in millimetres.
In the PAR series (such as PAR38), the number is the diameter of the bulb in eighths of an inch. So a PAR 38 is 38x1/8ths of an inch – 121mm (or 4¾”). Both types are available in LED, CFL and halogen versions.
Tech writer Hadyn Green tried out these colourful WiFi-enabled light bulbs.
The introduction of CFLs has seen some emotive claims made about the perceived hazard from the mercury released from a broken bulb. We've looked at an extensive independent study into the health risks, and conclude that the tiny amount of mercury in a broken CFL is unlikely to be a health hazard.
All CFLs contain very small amounts of mercury (less than 5mg), which is only released if the bulb is broken. The amount of mercury released depends on how used the CFL is – the amount reduces as the bulb ages.
Mercury is particularly toxic to children, pregnant women (and the baby they’re carrying), and people with kidney disease. When mercury vapour enters our bodies, it has a half-life of about 2 months. That is, it takes around 2 months for the mercury level to halve, another 2 months to halve again … and so on.
But how much mercury is toxic? The total amount that enters our bodies is dependent on the combination of the mercury concentration level and the exposure time.
Safe concentration levels have been established by several overseas studies. It varies with the exposure time and for continuous lifetime exposure the concentration level is much lower than for short durations.
We were planning to do our own testing of the health hazards from broken CFLs – but when we heard in late 2008 of a study being conducted by the Ministry of Health we decided our test would be a waste of resources.
The Ministry’s study looked at 2 broken-CFL scenarios. In the first, mess from the broken bulb wasn’t cleaned up and the room wasn’t ventilated. In the second, the mess was cleared up and the room was ventilated by opening the window.
Mercury vapour concentration levels were measured 15, 30 and 60 minutes after the breakage at the breathing levels for a child (300mm above the floor) and an adult (1500mm).
The study concluded that:
For both scenarios “human health risk is unlikely”.
The report can be downloaded from the Ministry of Health website.
The study was performed by US-based Toxicology Excellence for Risk Assessment (TERA), under contract to the Institute of Environmental Science and Research Limited (ESR) and the New Zealand Ministry of Health.
TERA’s business is to “protect public health by developing and communicating risk assessment values, improving risk methods through research, and educating the public on risk assessment issues.”
… “this assessment was conducted by an independent, non-profit organisation, using state-of-the-science chemical risk assessment methods to protect public health”.
TERA used data from several different laboratory experiments where CFLs were broken in a controlled environment and the mercury-vapour concentrations measured over time.
The white plastic base of a CFL contains electronic components. Their lifespan is reduced by heat. Although CFLs generate much less heat than incandescent bulbs, their life can be shortened if they're installed in a fitting that doesn't allow air to circulate.
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