The truth about 'free from' claims on cosmetics
Are there really nasties in your cosmetics?
No parabens, no silicones, no sulphates. From face masks to moisturisers, shoppers are told what ingredients are kept out of cosmetics. But are the excluded ingredients bad for you? Is leaving them out safer for your skin or better for the environment?
We take a closer look at free-from claims we found on a recent shop for cosmetics.
What is a free-from claim?
A free-from claim means a particular ingredient isn’t in a product. The claims are used to alert shoppers to potential allergens, such as gluten or dairy.
While “free-from” claims are likely true, they can be misleading under the Fair Trading Act (FTA) if other similar products routinely exclude those ingredients, too.
Shoppers may also interpret “free from” claims as meaning the product is safer, healthier or in the case of cosmetics, better for your skin than a similar product.
Some “free from” claims could also suggest an environmental benefit, but not have the evidence to back-it up.
Understanding free-from ingredients
We pulled out the “free from” claims we found on cosmetics during a recent shop. The ingredients are listed in alphabetical order.
Alcohol
What is alcohol used for in skincare? Dr Joanna Dowle, a senior advisor at the Environmental Protection Authority (EPA), said there is a wide range of alcohols used for different purposes, such as an antiseptic. While other alcohols can be used as a moisturiser.
What’s the problem with alcohol in skincare? Some alcohols used in cosmetics may dry out your skin. If you’ve got sensitive skin, you may react to it.
Is it a misleading claim? No.
EDTA
What is EDTA used for in skincare? Dr Dowle said EDTA is a single molecule with four acid groups that can be made into sodium salts. The two most common are disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA.
The EDTA binds the metal ions in the product (like calcium, magnesium and iron) which helps the product to foam in hard water.
What’s the problem with EDTA in skincare? Some studies indicated that EDTA was mutagenic, which means it can change the structure of your DNA, while others showed “reproductive and developmental effects” if given large oral doses.
An expert panel that assesses cosmetic ingredients, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), has assessed the studies and determined that EDTA is safe to use in personal care products.
Is it a misleading claim? We believe this could be a potentially misleading claim as it creates the impression EDTA is unsafe in cosmetics when it is not.
Ethoxylates
What are ethoxylates used for in skincare? Ethoxylates can be used as an emulsifier to keep ingredients (like oil and water) from separating in the mixture. It can also be used as a surfactant in cleansers to help bind dirt and oil, said Dr Dowle.
What’s the problem with ethoxylates in skincare? By themselves ethoxylates are not a concern. Yet, in the process of ethoxylation, it may leave traces of 1,4-dioxane (see “PEGs”).
1,4-dioxane is a byproduct of the manufacturing process. It’s a “potential human carcinogen” according to the FDA. However, studies have shown it is safe at trace levels of less than 10 parts per million (ppm).
The FDA also notes that because of changes in manufacturing, levels of the contaminant have declined over the past 20 years, which is backed up by its testing of selected products.
The FDA will continue to monitor 1,4-dixane levels in cosmetics.
Is it a misleading claim? We think the claim is potentially misleading, given ethoxylates are safe and levels of 1,4-dioxane have greatly reduced over the past 20 years because of improved manufacturing processes.
Genetically modified organisms (GMOs)
What are GMOs used for in skincare? GMOs are plants and other living organisms whose DNA has been changed using genetic engineering techniques. For example, a plant could be modified to produce a key ingredient at a cheaper price.
What’s the problem with GMOs in skincare? Ingredients that could be derived from GMO in cosmetics are corn oil, corn flour, soybean oil, lecithin and proteins produced by yeast, according to CosmeticsInfo.org which collates recent studies on cosmetic ingredients.
Ingredients extracted from GMOs in cosmetics are considered to be safe.
Is it a misleading claim? The only product in our survey to list GMO as a “free from” product is the Essano Collagen Boost biodegradable sheet mask. Given the ingredient list on the pack doesn’t say it contains any of the possible GMO ingredients (like corn oil or lecithin) we think the claim is likely to be misleading.
Methylisothiazolinone (MI or MIT) or Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI)
What is MI and MCI used for in skincare? Often, a mixture of the two ingredients (MI and MCI) are used in one product as a preservative.
What’s the problem with MI and MCI in skincare? The combination of MI and MCI is an allergy risk. In 2013, the American Contact Dermatitis Society named it contact allergen of the year.
In Aotearoa, the mix of MI and MCI in products is currently capped at 15ppm (0.0015%), according to the Environmental Protection Authority (EPA). However, it’s considering a proposal that the mixed ingredients can only be used in rinse-off products up to the maximum limit so New Zealand can have the same rules as the EU.
By itself, MI is considered safe at a maximum concentration of 100ppm. However, in Aotearoa there is a proposal to reduce this to 15ppm to match EU rules.
Is it a misleading claim? No. Given the high allergy risk, and the regulator is considering reducing the maximum concentration of it in products, people may wish to steer clear of this ingredient.
Mineral Oil
What is mineral oil used for in skincare? Mineral oil is used for its moisturising and skin softening properties. It’s used in many cosmetics, from bath oils to skin care products.
What’s the problem with mineral oil in skincare? Mineral oil is a petroleum product, so while it comes from a non-renewable resource, in cosmetics it’s relatively innocuous.
Is it a misleading claim? No
Microplastics
What are microplastics used for in skincare? They are added to products to increase their cleaning or scrubbing power.
What’s the problem with microplastics in skincare? Microplastics – also know as micro beads – are tiny plastic particles that are potentially harmful to marine life and therefore the food chain and to people.
What’s the problem with microplastics in skincare? While okay for skin, microplastics add to the planet’s plastic pollution.
Is it a misleading claim? Yes, we believe it’s misleading because micro-beads and microplastics have been banned from wash-off cosmetics in Aotearoa since June 2018.
Parabens
What are parabens? They are a group of preservatives commonly used in cosmetics to prevent bacteria and extend shelf life.
What’s the problem with parabens? In 2004 a study pointed to its potential for some parabens to act like the female sex hormone, oestrogen. In 2013 the European Union (EU) and Aotearoa banned five less commonly used parabens from use in cosmetics.
For other parabens used in cosmetics, the EU and Aotearoa set limits on the amount of parabens that can be used.
Recent studies have shown their use in cosmetics to be safe.
Is it a misleading claim? Cosmetics New Zealand says labelling a product as “paraben free” could mislead consumers because they might think the product is safer without them when that’s not the case. We agree.
Petrolatum
Why is petrolatum used for skincare? Also known as petroleum jelly or white petrolatum it was initially used as an ointment to heal skin. It’s still used today as a skin protectant in cosmetics.
What’s the problem with petrolatum in skincare? Petrolatum is criticised because it comes from a non-renewable source (petroleum).
However, because petroleum is highly refined, it is safe to use.
Is it a misleading claim? No. People may wish to use cosmetics made from renewable sources only.
Phthalates
What are phthalates used for in skincare? Phthalates are used in a variety of products from household items to construction. In cosmetics they can be used to help blend oil into water, as a plasticiser or as a drying agent.
What’s the problem with phthalates in skincare? In skincare, the most common phthalate is called dibutyl phthalate (DBP). While it’s been found to be safe in nail polishes, some countries have banned DBP from skin care products because of potential hormone disruption and children’s neurodevelopment.
DBP is banned for skin care products in Aotearoa.
Is it a misleading claim? We consider labelling products as phthalate-free is potentially misleading given the main phthalate used in cosmetics is banned in Aotearoa.
Polyethylene Glycol (PEGs) or Polypropylene Glycol (PPG)
What are PEGs and PPGs used for in skincare? They are used to help bind ingredients together and as a solvent or softener.
What’s the problem with PEGs and PPGs in skincare? PEGs and PPGs are generally considered to be safe. However, some may include trace elements of a contaminant called 1,4-dioxane, a byproduct of the manufacturing process.
1,4-dioxane is a “potential human carcinogen” according to the FDA. However, studies have shown it is safe at trace levels of less than 10ppm.
The FDA also notes that because of changes in manufacturing, levels of the contaminant have declined over the past 20 years, which is backed up by its testing of selected products.
The FDA will continue to monitor 1,4-dixane levels in cosmetics.
Is it a misleading claim? We think the claim is potentially misleading, given the risk over the past 20 years has greatly reduced because of improved manufacturing processes.
Silicones
What are silicones used for in skincare? Silicones make cosmetics products smooth and spreadable.
What’s the problem with silicones in skincare? An expert panel that assesses cosmetic ingredients, called the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), says silicones are safe to use in cosmetics and personal care products.
While safe, some people may be allergic to silicones.
Is it a misleading claim? If the claim suggests to shoppers that the product is safer without silicones, we consider it is likely to be a misleading claim. However, those with allergies may wish to steer clear.
Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)
What is SLS used for in skincare? SLS is commonly used as a surfactant in shampoos and other skin care products. It helps to mix water and oil.
What’s the problem with SLS in skincare? Cosmetics New Zealand say there is a common misconception that SLS is the same as Sodium Laurenth Sulphate which is used in cleaning products. In the past, a diluted form of the cleaning SLS was used in cosmetics, but this is no longer the case.
There were also claims in the late 1990s that SLS caused cancer. The CIR Expert Panel investigated this allegation and found to be false.
SLS is safe to use in cosmetics.
Is it a misleading claim? Yes. Because SLS is considered to be safe, and the diluted cleaning product version of the ingredient is no longer used, continuing to label products as “SLS free” is potentially misleading.
Synthetic colourants or fragrances
What are synthetic colourants or fragrances used in skincare? They are usually cheaper for manufacturers than those sourced from plants or animal products.
What’s the problem with synthetic colourants or fragrances in skincare? In terms of excluding synthetic ingredients, Dr Joanna Dowle, a senior advisor at the Environmental Protection Authority (EPA), said it was a disingenuous claim. It suggests synthetic ingredients are bad, while natural ingredients are good, when that isn’t always true.
Extracting natural ingredients also impacts on the environment such as water and land use, and transportation.
People can still be allergic to natural ingredients. “Some of the nastiest toxins come from Mother Nature, like tobacco,” Dr Dowle said.
Fragrance allergies are common and can be caused by synthetic or natural extracts.
The EPA limits what colourants can be used in cosmetics in Aotearoa.
Is it a misleading claim? Yes. Using the “free from” claim for synthetic ingredients could imply the product is better for you and the environment when it may not be the case.
Ingredient rules in Aotearoa
Manufacturers must ensure the products in their cosmetics are safe to use. The Environmental Protection Authority (EPA) regulates the rules on using hazardous substances in Aotearoa, including cosmetics.
“Free from” claims may give shoppers an impression about the safety of ingredients or cast doubt about the safety of approved ingredients so manufacturers should exercise caution when using the claims.
The industry body representing cosmetic manufacturers and sellers in the UK, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA), recommends companies talk about the positive ingredients in their products, rather than focusing on negative messages.
Cosmetics New Zealand provides guidelines for manufacturers using “free from” claims in Aotearoa. The Commerce Commission also provides some guidance. We think an audit of current claims would tidy up shopper confusion.
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