Lifejackets and PFDs
If you're heading out on the water, choose the right type of lifejacket and make sure you wear it.

When do you need a lifejacket or PFD? What’s the right type for your water vessel and activity? And what features are most important? We assessed 16 models to see which are best in different situations.
Lifejackets – sometimes called personal flotation devices (PFDs) – are worn to help you float and stay alive if you end up in the water.
If you’re on any water vessel powered by an engine, sail or paddle, maritime law requires you to have a lifejacket or PFD. Surfboards and similar unpowered watercraft are excluded.
While there are some low-risk situations when you don’t legally need to be wearing your lifejacket, you always should. Dozens of New Zealanders drown each year, many of whom could have survived if they’d been wearing a well-fitted lifejacket. Your lifejacket is no use stowed on board if you end up in the water.
But not all lifejackets are suitable for all water activities.
Types of lifejackets
There are different types for different purposes, each with different features.

For example, some PFDs are shaped to allow unrestricted movement for paddling, with a compromise on buoyancy. Those designed for offshore waters prioritise keeping an unconscious person’s face out of the water.
For use in New Zealand, a lifejacket must meet one of the national or international standards listed by Maritime New Zealand for each of the following types. But visit a specialist in person to choose correctly.
This type is suited to open and coastal waters, rough waters, offshore yachts, passenger launches and commercial fishing boats. They’re designed to keep an unconscious person upright with their face out of the water.
Inflatable
• Flotation is via an air bladder (at least 150 Newtons for 13+ years >40kg, and 100 Newtons for 8-12 years <40kg). The bladder is inflated by a CO2 gas cylinder, which needs replacing after each inflation. Some models require a more expensive ‘rearming kit’ for each inflation.
• Some are manually activated with a pull-cord and others will automatically inflate when submerged in water (‘hydrostatic’). Children’s sizes should be automatic inflating. All inflatables should also have an oral inflation tube.
• Crotch or thigh straps are recommended for all users (either built-in or retrofitted) – these are essential for children and anyone not confident in the water.
• They’re designed to be comfortable and convenient to wear full-time.
• They require regular servicing by a manufacturer-approved agent, plus owner checks of gas cylinders and inflation bladders.
Semi-rigid
• Flotation is via buoyant foam – minimum of 100 Newtons.
• They’re best for high-risk conditions as they’re not convenient to wear full-time.
• This type is suited to calm inshore waters and recreational boats. They’re not suitable for rough conditions.
• Flotation is via buoyant foam – minimum of 71 Newtons (adult sizes).
• They must have a buoyant collar, but they’re not designed to keep an unconscious person’s face out of the water.
• They’re comfortable and convenient to wear full-time.
There are a range of specialist PFDs for activities close to shore, such as kayaking, jetskiing, paddleboarding, jetboating, white water rafting, rock fishing and more.

Their flotation levels vary, but most have a lower buoyancy rating than the offshore and inshore waters types (401 and 402). That’s because typically they’re used near shore, where help is close to hand and they have less bulk to allow freedom of movement.
These PFDs also have different features depending on their intended use. Some have insulation to help retain body heat, some have pockets and attachment points for specialist equipment plus food and water, and some have bright or reflective elements to aid visibility.
Speak to a specialist to find the right lifejacket for your activity – so you’ll stay safe and have a good time.
What to consider when buying a lifejacket
• Choose the right type of lifejacket for where you’ll be using it and what you’ll be doing. Visit a specialist in person.
• It needs to be convenient and comfortable to wear for your planned activities. For example, you’ll want freedom of movement for paddling a kayak or paddleboard, racing a yacht or fishing. A lifejacket or PFD is most helpful when firmly fitted to your body, not stowed on board.
• Get the correct size – try it on rather than relying on size guides. Make sure it has good fastenings that are easy to use so you can get a secure fit and the lifejacket won’t ride up in the water. Some have straps that are difficult to tighten without help.
• If you’ll be in rough ocean waters, choose a model with a thigh or crotch strap to prevent it riding up in the water, or buy one separately. Crotch straps are also essential for young children and anyone not confident in the water.

• Make sure manually inflated lifejackets are logical and easy to inflate. Keep in mind that injuries and cold or rough conditions will make everything more difficult. You probably won’t be able to see the pull-cord when you’re in the water.
• Automatic or ‘hydrostatic’ inflatable lifejackets inflate on contact with water. Some models won’t activate unless you fall in the water, preventing unwanted inflation from splashing waves. Check the manufacturer specifications. It won’t be any good if you choose not to wear it because it inflates when you don’t want it to.
• Make sure the supplier of any inflatable lifejacket or other local retailer has ongoing supply of replacement gas cylinders or rearming kits and find out what they cost.
• Look for safety features such as high-visibility colours, reflective patches, a whistle and an attachment point for your personal locator beacon (PLB). Some offshore models have a harness loop to attach a safety line. Some have a spray hood to prevent the user breathing in water, and some have strobe lights.
• Think about what other features you need, such as extra attachment points and pockets for tools and equipment, plus your phone, food and water.
Get your lifejacket ready before your outing
• Check your lifejacket or PFD for wear and tear: Ahead of your outing, make sure your lifejacket’s fastening straps and clips are in good order. For inflatables, check the gas cylinder is not rusty and make sure the inflation bladder doesn’t have any wear or holes.
• Rearm and repack inflatables after use: Gas cylinders are single use, so make sure your lifejacket has a new cylinder before you head out. Some models require a new entire ‘rearming kit’ each time the lifejacket is inflated – check what’s required for yours. You’ll also need to repack the inflation bladder as directed in the user manual.
• Know how to use it: Before any trip, practise putting on your lifejacket and tightening the straps. Check it won’t ride up. Some are more straightforward than others. For inflatables, check where the manual inflation cord is and the direction in which it should be pulled. You’ll likely need to inflate it when you’re in the water and can’t see the cord toggle.
• Wear your lifejacket and attach your safety equipment: Before you leave the shore, put on your lifejacket and fasten securely. Attach your safety gear, such as your personal locator beacon (PLB), whistle, perhaps a strobe light and any tools you need. Don’t forget water and food, either in your lifejacket or on your water vessel as needed.
This report is free thanks to funding from Maritime New Zealand Nō te rere moana Aotearoa and New Zealand Search and Rescue Rapu Whakarauora Aotearoa.

Emergency alerting devices
If you're heading into the remote outdoors, take an emergency alerting device and make sure you choose the right type.
Open waters lifejackets (Type 401)
None of these models enclose the user’s torso with foam or neoprene, so they don’t help to retain a user’s body heat.
Inflatables require new gas cylinders or sometimes entire rearming kits (which include a cylinder and other parts) each time they’re inflated. The rearming kit for the Spinlock Deckvest Vito costs about $100. Inflatables also need their bladders repacking correctly so they stay in good order and will inflate properly next time they’re used.
Spinlock Deckvest Vito - $625
Inflatable (hydrostatic/automatic) with open back.

The Spinlock Deckvest Vito automatic inflatable lifejacket is ideal for offshore yacht racing. It's an excellent open waters lifejacket, but other models have easier to use fastenings. This model also requires a new entire rearming kit after every inflation, costing about $100.
Hutchwilco Open Waters Coastal - $119
Semi-rigid foam with open back.


Lifejackets should be worn at all times rather than just stowed on board. But the Hutchwilco Open Waters Coastal lifejacket is too bulky - it would be inconvenient to wear full-time. It's also fiddly to cross the straps at the back and secure due to the large bulk. So it would be difficult to put on quickly if ocean conditions suddenly changed for the worse. For these reasons, we put this in the 'don't buy' category.
Hutchwilco Super Comfort - $195
Inflatable (manual) with open back.


Don’t buy any lifejacket with this inflator mechanism. However, the Hutchwilco Super Comfort with a different inflator is an excellent open waters lifejacket. Replacement gas cylinders cost $60.
Watersnake Inflatable Lifejacket - $100
Inflatable (manual) with open back.

The Watersnake manual inflatable lifejacket is an excellent open waters lifejacket that's very good value. We particularly like the simplicity and ease of putting it on and securing. Its only drawback is the lack of attachment points for PLB or other safety equipment. Replacement gas cylinders cost $27.
Inshore waters lifejackets (Type 402)
Hutchwilco Mariner Classic - $120
Semi-rigid foam with enclosed torso.

RFD Mistral - $99
Semi-rigid foam with enclosed torso.

BurnsCo Starguard - $40
Semi-rigid foam with open back.


Type 402 (inshore waters) lifejackets are intended to be comfortable and convenient to wear at all times. But the BurnsCo Starguard lifejacket is not - it's too bulky. It also has an open back, when most Type 402 lifejackets have an enclosed torso to help retain body heat. For these reasons, we put this in the 'don't buy' category.
Line 7 Beacon Classic - $100
Semi-rigid foam with enclosed torso.

The Line 7 Beacon Classic is a very good all round lifejacket. We recommend people add a crotch or thigh strap for extra support.
Specialist PFDs (suitable for a range of near-shore water activities)
Vaikobi V3 - $239
Semi-rigid foam/ neoprene front and back.

Hutchwilco Neo Sport Vest - $220
Neoprene vest with enclosed torso.

RFD Chinook Neoprene - $456
Neoprene vest with enclosed torso.

Ultra Session - $170
Neoprene vest with enclosed torso.

RFD Briza - $120
Semi-rigid foam and neoprene front and back.

Palm Nevis - $550
Semi-rigid foam front and back.

Hutchwilco LifeBelt - $190
Inflatable (manual) waist pack.

Spinlock ALTO Manual Inflatable Waistbelt - $121
Inflatable (manual) waist pack.

Inflatables require new gas cylinders or sometimes entire rearming kits (which include a cylinder and other parts) each time they’re inflated. Their inflation bladders also need repacking correctly so they stay in good order and will inflate properly next time they’re used.
How we assess
There are hundreds of lifejackets on the market. We assessed a selection of readily available lifejackets and PFDs of different types. See ‘Types of lifejackets’.
Ease of use
We assessed how easy it is to put on each lifejacket and zip or clip it together. This includes how logical the process is. We counted the straps, clips and buckles of each model, taking note of their position, size and the materials used.
We checked how easy it is for a user to tighten each lifejacket for a secure fit without help from another person. Models that fasten in front or with side straps that need pulling forwards are easier to tighten than those with side straps that need pulling backwards. We also took note of whether strap excess could be stowed out of the user’s way.
We considered the comfort and convenience of wearing each lifejacket, including freedom of movement to perform the activities typical of a user of the lifejacket type.
For automatic (‘hydrostatic’) inflatables, we checked how easily and quickly they inflated. We also looked at what protection there is from accidental activation – for example, submersion in water (a certain amount of water pressure) rather than wave splash.
For manual inflatables, we assessed the simplicity of the inflation process and how easy the pull-cord toggle is to access and pull. For all inflatables, we also noted how easy it is to access and use the oral inflation tube plus any additional features such as spray hood and whistle.
We took account of the added difficulty of accessing and using features in cold and choppy water. This is particularly relevant for manually inflated lifejackets, including the process required for deploying and putting on waist-pack inflatables.
Features
We compared buoyancy ratings and body styles. We considered whether there’s more buoyancy in front than back to help keep a user’s face out of the water. And we took note of whether or not a user’s torso is fully enclosed with foam or neoprene to help maintain body heat.
We looked for permanently attached whistles, high-visibility colours, reflective elements, rescue/lifting straps, and any strobe lights or spray hoods.
Each lifejacket was also checked over for attachment points to secure an emergency beacon (PLB) and other safety equipment.
We took note of the number, size and location of any pockets for equipment, food and water too.
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