Catch those stains before it's too late with our A-Z guide.
We offer advice on stain-removal covering everything from beer to red wine, as well as dry-cleaning, garment care and dealing with stains on carpets.
You've got 3 options:
Immediate response is the key to successful stain removal - keep these home remedies handy.
Bleach kills mildew and mould and is good at removing coloured stains. Once the stain has gone, wash out the bleach thoroughly.
Downside: Strong bleach may fade or damage the item (chlorine bleach is particularly risky). Always dilute following the label directions. A mild bleach like hydrogen peroxide (mixed at 5tsp/0.5L water) is less likely to damage fabrics if used correctly.
Solvents remove stains by dissolving them. Nail polish remover works on lacquers and some paints and resins, as well as nail polish. Methylated spirits (meths) is good on adhesive tape, PVA, latex and water-based paints, ballpoint ink, waxes, makeup, correction fluid and chocolate. White spirits (used in lighter fluid), turpentine (turps), and kerosene can cope with fat or oil stains, tar and asphalt and some adhesives.
Tip: To remove sticky price labels or tape marks - try heating the sticker with a blow dryer or soaking it in hot water. With luck the sticker or mark will just come away. If that doesn't work, sponge it with a solvent such as meths or nail polish remover. Some solvents may damage plastic surfaces so check first.
Downside: Some solvents can damage fabrics so always check the care label first. The fumes can be hazardous - see "Safe cleaning" below.
Mild acids such as white vinegar, cream of tartar or lemon juice help remove rust and some food stains.
This can remove some adhesive glues, fat, wax, gum, and tar.
Lubricating agents such as glycerine or petroleum jelly help soften old stains.
Tip: To loosen an old stain rub in glycerine and leave it for an hour. (You can get glycerine from a pharmacy).
Washing agents weaken the bonds holding the stain so it can be washed away. Ammonia and borax are all-round cleaners. Enzyme-based laundry detergents, stain removers and soakers target protein-based stains, such as blood and egg-yolk.
Tip: Mix the laundry detergent to a paste with cold water before applying it
Dry-cleaning is necessary for clothes that would be damaged by cleaning with detergent and water, or to remove difficult stains.
Most dry-cleaners in New Zealand use a solvent called perchloroethylene or "perc". All traces of it should be removed during the dry-cleaning process. If there's a lingering smell, air the garment outside before storing.
Tip: For garments that only need pressing, use a sticky lint roller (available from supermarkets, pet shops or dry cleaners) and a good steam iron at home instead of dry-cleaning.
A handful of dry-cleaners use hydrocarbon or liquid silicone instead of perc. Although less toxic, hydrocarbon-solvents are still petroleum-based and aren't "environmentally friendly".
Liquid silicone dry-cleaning is gentle on clothes and degrades to sand, and traces of water and carbon dioxide. Unfortunately, the manufacturing of silicone solvents is anything but green.
Dry-cleaning must be carried out with reasonable skill and care, and must be fit for any purpose you make known to the cleaner. General disclaimers or signs stating "all care and no responsibility" hold no weight under the Consumer Guarantees Act.
Before accepting a garment for cleaning, a dry-cleaner should examine it with you. If there's a chance it can't be successfully dry-cleaned but they go ahead without warning you of the risk, they become liable for any damage. But if they warn you of the risk and you have the garment cleaned anyway, then it's your problem.
If you think a dry-cleaner hasn't done the job with reasonable skill and care and has ruined your garment, discuss the damage with them. If that doesn't work, contact the Textile Care Federation of New Zealand (the dry-cleaning industry body).
It's possible the care-label instructions are at fault and not the dry-cleaner. If so, go back to the retailer who sold you the garment and ask for a refund or replacement garment.
If you don't like hand washing or dry-cleaning, save time and money by checking care labels when buying new clothes. Look for machine-washable garments. Items that can be successfully washed by hand or machine should say this on the care label.
Tip: Most new front-loading (and some top-loading) washing machines have a "hand-washable woollens" cycle, gentle enough for hand-wash-only garments. See our test of washing machines for models with this feature.
Many cotton, linen and woollen knit garments don't need to be dry-cleaned (as long as they don't have special finishes or detailing such as pleats). If the care label says "dry-clean only" and it's a relatively cheap item that you'll only wear for one season, you may want to take the chance and hand wash it. This would be at your risk.
Remember: if you decide wash to rather than dry-clean, the manufacturer won't be responsible if the garment is damaged.
Rubbing from normal wear can cause fibres to unravel and loose ends ball up or "pill" on the surface of garments.
Washing with heavy fabrics (like denim) can often remove pilling from machine-washable garments. For hand-wash-only garments, remove by carefully skimming a razor, de-piller (similar to an electric razor) or pumice stone across the fabric while holding it taut.
Tip: Clothes made from tightly-woven natural fibre fabrics (like fine merino wool) are less likely to pill than those made from acrylic and other synthetic fibres.
Important: if the stain isn't liquid and looks serious - for example, tracked in oily footprints - don't touch it until you've called your insurance company. You may find that repairing the damage is covered by your contents policy.
Winter damp can bring some unwelcome visitors - slippery paths, shabby roofs, ruined clothes and unsightly paintwork. The culprits are mould, mildew, lichen or moss. Here's how to deal with them.
Mould and mildew are types of fungi. The spores are everywhere, but to grow they need moisture. To combat the problem, try the following:
But what about existing mould? There are many products on the market which claim to help but if you want to save some money, use household bleach - possibly in a spray bottle. This uses the same main active ingredient (sodium hypochlorite) as more expensive products. Whichever you use, remember to follow the instructions and test on a small area first.
Slippery moss pathways and steps can be quite a danger. Again, dampness is the cause. To lessen the build-up, keep the area clear of dead leaves and other debris, and remove overhanging vegetation. In extreme cases you may want to install drainage alongside the path to catch seeping water.
To remove existing moss or lichen you could use either a water blaster or chemicals. A water blaster is relatively quick - but messy, and they can damage asphalt paths and driveways. With chemical treatment, simply apply to the problem area, wait a couple of weeks, then hose off the debris. Domestic disinfectant uses the same active ingredient as some specialist moss/lichen products (although some do have additional ingredients to assist with cleaning).
As a starting point we suggest you try a supermarket bulk-brand disinfectant - look for one with the strongest concentration of alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride. When applying, try not to splash surrounding plants as they may be damaged. And whatever you do, don't mix household chemicals yourself, as this can create poisonous gas.
Here's how to treat spots and stains on fabrics. In most cases, the item should be rinsed or washed straight after treatment.
You can also download a PDF copy (194 KB) of our stain removal guide to print out and keep handy.