Clothes dryers

• Size: Larger capacity generally means a physically bigger dryer – so the capacity of your dryer is likely to be determined by the available space in your laundry area.
• Ducting: Vented clothes dryers generate lots of warm moist air – a model that can be ducted outside is preferable. Ducting to the outside prevents dripping walls and mouldy ceilings. Some dryers come with ducting kits supplied, kits for other models are an optional extra. You can pick up universal ducting kits from appliance stores like Noel Leeming and Bond & Bond (priced between $50 and $70).
• Wall mountable or stackable: You'll save space if your dryer can be mounted on the wall or stacked on top of a front-loading washing machine. Vented dryers (see "What type of dryer?", above) are generally the only dryers that you can wall mount. Stackable models are designed to be mounted on top of a front-loading washing machine of the same brand. If you want to stack your dryer, check on this before you buy it.
• Drying racks: These are used for drying shoes and other non-fabric items so they don't tumble as they dry. Racks are usually an optional extra, available in internal and external types. External racks only work with non-ducted models with an exhaust grille in the front door.

• Sensor-and-timer or timer-only: A sensor detects when the clothes are dry enough and automatically turns off the dryer. Some members have complained that sensors switch off the machine before the load has fully dried. Models with a sensor usually have a timer as well, so if you don’t think the sensor is working, try using the timer instead.
  

Sensor-and-timer models tend to be more expensive than timer-only. Think about how often you'll use the sensor: there's no point paying for sensor drying if you use it only occasionally.

• Reverse tumbling: Many models reverse the direction of their drum at regular intervals. This minimises tangling and dries your clothes more evenly.
• Settings: Some dryers come packed with automatic settings: "extra dry", "very dry", "cupboard dry" and so on. Don't pay more for a machine with extra settings you won't use – a more limited number of settings (such as "high" and "low") should do you just fine.
• Drying time: This varies between models, and depends on the capacity of the machine, and the weight of clothes being dried. The quickest models can dry a load of clothes in about 2 hours. Slower models can take up to 90 minutes longer.
• Manual restart: Dryers that automatically start tumbling again if you open and close the door mid-cycle are dangerous for young children who might climb inside the drum and shut the door behind them. All of the dryers we've tested need to be manually restarted.

Vented dryers are simple beasts, so they’re easy to repair. Internal components such as the drive belt, thermal fuse and even the drive motor can be swapped out. You should also be able to order external components such as door catches, controls and lint filters from the manufacturer or a service centre.

Our life expectancy estimate:

• Economic life: 7-20+ years
• Life expectancy: 15+ years

Tip: If you do decide to replace your old faithful, look for a dryer with a sensor. Sensors can prevent you from over-drying clothes and wasting energy.

• Line dry your washing – the ultimate cost saver! It’s free to dry washing on the line so use it whenever you can. Save your clothes dryer for rainy days or to finish off a still-damp load.
• Clean the lint filter – after every load. This makes it easier for air to circulate through your clothes so the dryer is running efficiently. A full lint filter is also a fire hazard.
• Use the highest spin speed on your washing machine – this extracts more water, which means your washing needs less time and energy to dry your load. If you’re thinking of replacing your washing machine, front loaders generally spin at faster speeds than top loaders.
• Separate loads – into heavy and lightweight materials (lighter clothes dry quicker) and shake out your clothes before drying them (tight wads of clothes take longer to dry).
• Choose an energy-efficient dryer. If you need a dryer to use year-round (for example, because you live in an apartment), go for a heat pump dryer. They cost more to buy but are cheaper to run.
• Ventilate. Duct your vented dryer outside as venting moisture back into your laundry space just makes your dryer work harder to dry your clothes, costing you more. If you can't vent, consider a condenser or heat pump condenser dryer as it won't leave you with water dripping from the ceiling and running down the walls.

Is your sensor clothes dryer stopping short of drying your clothes? A sensor clothes dryer should detect when a load is dry and stop running. This prevents over-drying, which can damage your clothes. Because it’s not running any longer than it needs to, you’ll save money on your power bill too. But what if your clothes dryer stops and you open the door to a still-damp load?

If you’re having trouble getting your sensor dryer to fully dry a load, try these tips:

Clean the moisture sensors: These are 2 metal strips that are usually inside the drum underneath the door. Over time, residue from washing powder and fabric softener can accumulate on the sensors, which reduces sensitivity. To clean them, switch the dryer off at the wall and wipe with a soft cloth and mild soap.

Sort your load: Mixed loads – for example, lightweight T-shirts and heavyweight jeans – can be challenging for a sensor dryer. For even results, dry similar-weight items together.

Use the right setting: Clothes dryers are becoming more sophisticated, with settings for different fabrics and items such as sheets and sportswear. It pays to read the user guide to check you’re using the most suitable setting for the type of items you throw in your dryer. For example, if your dryer has a “sheets” setting, use it as it will alternate the tumbling direction to prevent sheets tangling into a damp-centred ball.

Up to standard?

According to the Australia New Zealand Standard our test is based on, clothes dryers must be capable of drying a full load to a moisture level of 6% or less. However, not all settings achieve this. While the setting stated on the dryer’s energy rating label must be able to dry clothes to this required moisture level, some settings are programmed to leave items damp so they’re easier to iron.

If you’re using the energy rating label setting and haven’t overloaded your dryer and you’re still getting damp clothes, then your dryer isn’t doing its job properly.

Our clothes dryers test uses a standard load of cotton bed sheets, small towels and pillow cases. This allows us to compare clothes dryers fairly and repeat the test year after year. We test using a 3.5kg (dry weight) load, which gets a lot heavier when wet at a 90% moisture level. This is the same size load we use when testing washing machines – it’s about the average amount a consumer washes at one time.

A load with a moisture level of 6% will meet the Australia New Zealand Standard but we look for better than that in our testing. So when we test clothes dryers, we’re looking for a moisture level closer to 2-3% by the end of the drying time. It’s not often that we find a clothes dryer that can’t achieve a moisture level of less than 3%. When we do, we apply a penalty to the overall score. This is because we think any dryer should be capable of drying your clothes to the point where you can hang them in your wardrobe or put them in a drawer straightaway.