The best fridges for keeping your food fresh.
Find the best model to fit your kitchen and learn what to look for in a new fridge with our buying guide.
We’ve also tested fridges for temperature fluctuations, uniformity between the fridge and freezer, and much more. Learn about how we test fridges.
Size, shape, shelves, drawers ... here's what to look for when choosing a new fridge.
A fridge’s “star rating” and annual energy consumption are printed on a label so you can make comparisons in the showroom. All fridges must have the label, but watch for tricks like putting the display card over the label.
We recommend looking at these labels, the annual running costs from our test, or the Energy Rating website which has a 10-year running cost calculator.
We ask thousands of Consumer members about their products to find out which brands are most reliable and satisfying to own. The results are available to members and Digital Pass holders.
The Energy Rating Label has a scale of stars to show how energy efficient a model is, compared to other models of the same size/capacity.
More stars = more energy efficient.
The energy consumption figure is in kilowatt-hours (kWh) and you can use this figure and the cost (tariff) from your latest power bill to calculate how much this model will cost to run. The MBIE-reported national average cost of a kWh in New Zealand is 29¢.
Lower kWh = cheaper to run.
Fridge and freezer annual energy consumption in kWh is based on standards testing and assumes the appliance is on 24 hours a day.
You should only compare star ratings of fridges or freezers with the same or similar capacities.
There are now two fridge/freezer energy rating labels, using different standards and with different ratings. For information on energy ratings and how to use them, see our Energy Rating Labels explained article.
We trawled through our test data and analysed noise readings for household appliances, including dishwashers, washing machines and vacuum cleaners. Fridges were the quietest, with an average running noise of 33dBA. That’s almost as quiet as a cat purring.
Our noise test is conducted while the fridge’s compressor is on and off, but not while it’s defrosting. Measurements are taken a metre away and up from the floor. While our noise measurements are objective (31dBA is 31dBA), how people perceive noise is subjective. This is why we don’t consider noise when scoring fridges.
Our members often ask why our noise readings don’t match those stated by the manufacturer. The answer is they were measured in different conditions. When we test noise, we want our results to be directly comparable. This means all models are tested in the same lab and under the same conditions. This won’t be the same as how a manufacturer measures noise. Only compare noise readings of models we have tested.
The decibel scale is logarithmic, not linear so a sound difference of 10dBA will sound like double the sound. This means a 30dBA fridge will sound twice as loud as a 20dBA model, while a 40dBA fridge will sound four times louder. Most people will only notice a difference of 5dBA or greater, so two fridges with noise readings 3dBA apart will sound about the same.
The design and layout of your home also affects how noisy you’ll find a fridge. Sound waves are dispersed by objects, which will muffle the sound. This means open-plan areas do little to minimise a fridge’s noise. A fridge with walls or cabinetry at its back and sides will also be quieter as these help deflect the sound.
Here’s a guide to normal sounds fridges make and what causes them:
Plastic walls and shelves inside the fridge contracting and expanding as temperature changes.
Water draining during the defrost cycle.
Refrigerant gas moving through the coils during the compressor cycle.
Some fridges have an external fan that helps keep the compressor cool.
Usually found in models with an ice maker as it’s turning on or off.