Fridges
The best fridges for keeping your food fresh.
A fridge’s temperature performance is important for both keeping your food fresh, as well as saving on energy costs.
Find the best model to fit your kitchen and learn what to look for in a new fridge with our buying guide.
We’ve also tested fridges for temperature fluctuations, uniformity between the fridge and freezer, and much more. Learn about how we test fridges.
We've gathered information on 47 fridges.
Find a fridge
Our members help keep us independent
Get unlimited access to all content and support us in staying independent.
Learn more Join Consumer Log inEfficiency
In general a bigger fridge will use more power than a smaller one – some smaller models we’ve tested cost half as much to run as some bigger models.
A fridge’s “star rating” and annual energy consumption are printed on a label so you can make comparisons in the showroom. All fridges must have the label, but watch for tricks like putting the display card over the label.
We recommend looking at these labels, the annual running costs from our test, or the Energy Rating website which has a 10-year running cost calculator.
Noise
The fridge is one of the few household appliances that is always running. This means a loud one can become a major annoyance.
We trawled through our test data and analysed noise readings for household appliances, including dishwashers, washing machines and vacuum cleaners. Fridges were the quietest, with an average running noise of 33dBA. That’s almost as quiet as a cat purring.
Our noise test is conducted while the fridge’s compressor is on and off, but not while it’s defrosting. Measurements are taken a metre away and up from the floor. While our noise measurements are objective (31dBA is 31dBA), how people perceive noise is subjective. This is why we don’t consider noise when scoring fridges.
Our members often ask why our noise readings don’t match those stated by the manufacturer. The answer is they were measured in different conditions. When we test noise, we want our results to be directly comparable. This means all models are tested in the same lab and under the same conditions. This won’t be the same as how a manufacturer measures noise. Only compare noise readings of models we have tested.
The decibel scale is logarithmic, not linear so a sound difference of 10dBA will sound like double the sound. This means a 30dBA fridge will sound twice as loud as a 20dBA model, while a 40dBA fridge will sound four times louder. Most people will only notice a difference of 5dBA or greater, so two fridges with noise readings 3dBA apart will sound about the same.
- 30dBA – Fridges (equivalent to a whisper)
- 40dBA – Dishwashers (equivalent to running water)
- 50dBA – Clothes dryers and dehumidifiers (equivalent to moderate rainfall)
- 60dBA – Washing machines (equivalent to normal conversation/TV)
- 70dBA – Vacuum cleaners (equivalent to a dull roar)
The design and layout of your home also affects how noisy you’ll find a fridge. Sound waves are dispersed by objects, which will muffle the sound. This means open-plan areas do little to minimise a fridge’s noise. A fridge with walls or cabinetry at its back and sides will also be quieter as these help deflect the sound.
What’s that sound?
Here’s a guide to normal sounds fridges make and what causes them:
Cracking/popping
Plastic walls and shelves inside the fridge contracting and expanding as temperature changes.
Dripping/gurgling
Water draining during the defrost cycle.
Hissing
Refrigerant gas moving through the coils during the compressor cycle.
Whirring
Some fridges have an external fan that helps keep the compressor cool.
Banging
Usually found in models with an ice maker as it’s turning on or off.
Top Brand
Get access to Consumer to view this content
- Heaps of buying advice so you can choose with confidence
- Independent reviews of thousands of products and services
- Personal advice an email or phone call away on our advice line (members only).
Which brands are most reliable?
Buying second-hand
New fridges and freezers are more energy efficient – so if you’re buying second hand, newer is better.
- Stick to well-known brands under five years old, as newer models are much more energy efficient. They’re also easier to get parts for if anything needs fixing.
- Check the lid or door seal is intact, in good condition and the door or lid shuts properly.
- Make sure the door is hinged on the correct side for your kitchen (or is reversible).
- Make sure the interior is in good nick and free from funny smells. Only buy if it looks tidy and well cared for.
- If you buy a fridge from a second-hand dealer and then discover it’s faulty, you're covered by the Consumer Guarantees Act. If you buy privately, you're not.
- Under the Electricity Act, all electrical appliances for sale must be safe – whether they're new or second-hand, bought privately or from a dealer.
Multi-drawers
Multi-drawers, often between the fridge and freezer, are a separate compartment that regulate humidity like a crisper but has more stable temperatures.
Being separate from the main fridge compartment means humidity can be controlled more accurately, slowing the ripening process and keeping produce fresh for longer. Some multi-drawers also have separate temperature controls. This means you can store a wider range of foods or, if it goes low enough, use it as a freezer.
