Fridges

Big side-by-side fridge-freezers with chilled water and ice dispensers are a lot more energy-efficient than large models of old. The trouble is, they don’t compete with vertical models for usable space. That handy ice-and-water dispenser usually reduces the freezer space by around 30%.

The fridge and freezer compartments on side-by-side models are narrower and deeper than in a vertically stacked fridge. This will be a problem for anyone who has trouble finding things in the back. The freezers are especially narrow: in one of the models we tested, you can’t lie a large pizza flat.

You also need to consider whether a side-by-side will fit your kitchen, or even through the doors into the house! Will there be room for the doors to open fully? These are big beasts, so check dimensions carefully.

Remember to allow ventilation space on the sides, back and top. It’s usually around 5cm, but ask the dealer for the exact requirements. The top can require up to 30cm clearance! Also, if they have a through-the-door icemaker and water dispenser, you will need to get a plumber to install them.

Top or bottom freezer?

Ultimately, it comes down to your needs and personal preference.

Having the fridge uppermost is generally more convenient. You open the fridge door many more times per day than you do the freezer, so it makes sense to have the fridge in the more accessible, upper position. For users in wheelchairs, having the freezer at the bottom will make it easier to get food in and out of both compartments.

But fridges with bottom freezers tend to have cold vegetable crispers, because the crisper sits on top of the freezer (although some models have a small heater under the crispers to overcome this!).

Having the freezer on top can mean the whole unit performs a little better. But fridges with top freezers tend to have warm crispers, because they sit at the bottom well away from the freezer.

Size and space

• We estimate a typical family of 4 doing its main shopping trip once a week would need 400 to 500 litres of total storage.
• There are fridge-freezers as small as 170L, but these will only be useful in small apartments, or baches. In general, they do not perform as well as their larger cousins.
• You can get vertically stacked models up to 600L, and side-by-side fridge-freezers with a total of 600L to 800L. But side-by-side models cost a good $1000 more.

As long as it fits in your kitchen space, go for the largest fridge-freezer you can afford. It’s false economy to keep your old fridge to cope with any extra demand. Old fridges are much less energy efficient, and one new large model with a bit of spare capacity will almost certainly run for less than an older smaller one. If you must keep the old one, switch it on only when you need it.

If you’re buying a fridge to fit an existing space, remember to check the measurements. Australian-made models and the bigger sizes from all brands may not fit.

Whatever size you buy, check with the real items you commonly store to see how well they’ll fit. If you like to keep pizzas in the fridge, where will they go? Will you be able to line the door shelves with your usual 2L milk containers and large juice bottles? If you like whole watermelon in summer, is there enough shelf space?

Interior layout

• Most fridges give you the choice of which side the door opens when you buy, or allow you to change it later.

• It’s handy to be able to get all the trays and baskets out without having to open the doors any wider than 90°. Many people have their fridges in a corner, so when the doors are open 90° they are hard against the wall.

• Side-by-side models don’t offer a choice of the side which doors open. As well, the doors on this type of fridge-freezer may get in the way of using drawers and shelves if the doors cannot open to an angle well beyond 90°.

• Most models have a good range of positions for shelves, but they must be fully removed before being reinserted. Many can’t be pulled out unless the door is opened well beyond 90°.

• Solid shelves are an improvement on wire grill shelves. They stop spills dribbling all the way through the fridge, they make those spills less likely anyway because they provide a more stable surface, and they are easier to wipe clean.

• Drawers are easier to load, but it’s harder to find small items in the bottom. If the door cannot open beyond 90°, you may not be able to pull the drawer out far enough to reach the back.

Multi-drawers

Multi-drawers, often between the fridge and freezer, are a separate compartment that regulate humidity like a crisper but has more stable temperatures. Being separate from the main fridge compartment means humidity can be controlled more accurately, slowing the ripening process and keeping produce fresh for longer. Some multi-drawers also have separate temperature controls. This means you can store a wider range of foods or, if it goes low enough, use it as a freezer.

Exterior finish

Whiteware isn’t just white anymore; stainless steel is also a popular finish. However, it’s prone to fingerprints and marks, so it can pay to look for a matte or “fingerprint-resistant” stainless-steel finish to avoid constant cleaning. The colour palette doesn’t stop there, black, and red models can be found, though they usually command a premium price.

Other features to consider

• Alarms or self-closing feature: Most fridge-freezers now have an alarm that sounds when the door has been left open for too long. However, these alarms are often only on the fridge compartment, not the freezer. When and how long the alarm sounds also varies. A classic method for ensuring your fridge door would close was slightly elevating the front of the fridge, so gravity closed the door for you. Most fridges now include a self-closing feature where the doors have weights built-in to them so they automatically close on their own.
• Chillers: These are genuinely useful. Ideal for storing meat or super cooling the beer. They provide cooler storage (just above 0°C) than the rest of the fridge, so are good for storing meat and fish. They also prevent the food dripping onto other food and contaminating it. Some models have a separate control for the chiller.
• Crisper: We measure the humidity in the crisper, which is a guide to how well unwrapped vegetables will stay fresh. Crispers need to have a lid that seals properly, so the humidity is contained. Some fridges have a humidity control so you can get it just right.
• Adjustable rollers or feet: The body of the fridge-freezer must be perfectly level and square. The size and width of large models means they can easily distort, and then the doors may not seal properly. Level adjustments on all four corners may be needed to get the balance right. Rollers (with brakes!) make it much easier to pull the fridge out for cleaning.
• Butter conditioners: These used to be a standard feature of New Zealand fridges, but they seem to have gone the way of the dinosaurs. We think that’s a good thing. Butter conditioners lower a fridge’s energy efficiency, and they don’t necessarily keep butter at a useful temperature anyway. If you want to keep butter a bit warmer, use the dairy compartment in the door.
• Containers: Side-by-side fridge-freezers tend to have more self-enclosed containers than vertical models. These make fridge storage tidy (and more hygienic), but they also take up space and can make access a bit harder.
• Can dispenser: Not a very common feature, but we like it! A handy wire under-shelf rack partitioned into three rows: you take one of the front cans and the rest roll forward. New Zealand beer cans (330mL) and soft drink cans (355mL) will fit, but the slightly larger Aussie beer cans (375mL) won’t.
• Separate vegetable drawers: Having a third compartment can make access to the vegies more convenient. But unless it has an airtight lid, it will not function as a proper vegetable crisper. Vegetables not in a crisper should be wrapped before storing: the easiest option is to use the bags supplied by supermarkets in the vegetable section.
  

Noise

The fridge is one of the few household appliances that is always running. This means a loud one can become a major annoyance.

Over the many years of our testing we’ve analysed noise readings for household appliances, including dishwashers, washing machines and vacuum cleaners. Fridges were the quietest, with an average running noise of 33dBA. That’s almost as quiet as a cat purring.

The decibel scale is logarithmic, not linear so a sound difference of 10dBA will sound like double the sound. This means a 30dBA fridge will sound twice as loud as a 20dBA model, while a 40dBA fridge will sound four times louder. Most people will only notice a difference of 5dBA or greater, so two fridges with noise readings 3dBA apart will sound about the same.

• 30dBA – Fridges (equivalent to a whisper)
• 40dBA – Dishwashers (equivalent to running water)
• 50dBA – Clothes dryers and dehumidifiers (equivalent to moderate rainfall)
• 60dBA – Washing machines (equivalent to normal conversation/TV)
• 70dBA – Vacuum cleaners (equivalent to a dull roar)

The design and layout of your home also affects how noisy you’ll find a fridge. Sound waves are dispersed by objects, which will muffle the sound. This means open-plan areas do little to minimise a fridge’s noise. A fridge with walls or cabinetry at its back and sides will also be quieter as these help deflect the sound.

Buying second-hand

Before buying any second-hand appliance, check it still works. Don’t just trust the seller! For a fridge or freezer, that means inspecting it in person, if possible, and asking the seller to leave it running for at least 12 hours beforehand so you can check temperatures. If you can’t see it running before buying, reconsider the purchase.

Does it suit your space and needs?

• Measure the space in your kitchen and the doorways leading there to make sure the fridge will fit. And remember you’ll need about 5cm of space on the sides and back and 30cm on top for ventilation (check what the manufacturer recommends).

• Is the door hinged on the correct side for your kitchen? If not, maybe it’s reversible? You can look up the manual online to find out.

• Check that what the seller is telling you matches the manual for that model.

• Does it have enough shelves and drawers for your household?

Do your research

• If the listing doesn’t state the fridge’s brand or model name, scrutinise the photos. Look for an energy rating sticker, which will state the model’s name.

• Search the manufacturer’s website for information on the model, such as its manual, installation guide or product information sheet.

• Check out our test results for older models (set the filter to include discontinued models on our fridges test page), including their specifications and features. While these results are from when the model was first tested, and performance can decrease with age, we expect that a second-hand fridge less than 10 years old and kept in good condition should still perform comparably with the results.

• Can’t see the model on our website? You can still check out older models’ energy efficiency on the GenLess Efficient Appliance Calculator.

Hands-on checks

• Make sure it turns on.

• Check the door or lid seal is intact and creates a good seal when shut. Put a torch inside it so you can see if light shines through the seal or try opening the door with your little finger (using very light pressure). If it’s easy to open, then the seals are getting old. While seals can be easily replaced, it can be a sign the appliance has been poorly maintained.

• Make sure the interior is in good nick and doesn’t smell too bad. Only buy if it looks well cared for.

• Look for stains, both inside and outside. These could indicate a leak.

• Look for cracks in chest freezers, this can be a safety issue when the appliance is off and the ice melts.

• Check the shelves and baskets aren’t cracked or buckled. These are replaceable (check the manufacturer’s website, Trade Me, your local op-shop or landfill shop), but the older a fridge or freezer is, the harder it is to find spare parts.

• Listen for excessive sounds or vibrations.

• Check the lights, ice and water dispensers, and temperature controls work.

• Check the sides and back are in good order. Dents could potentially affect the motor or compressor.

• If it’s a frost-free model, see if there’s an excessive build-up of ice. This can indicate a drainage issue.

• If you can, check the temperature (we suggest using an infrared thermometer). You want the fridge to be 3°C and the freezer -15°C. Check the temperature is fairly consistent throughout the compartments (but note that the dairy compartment is likely to be warmer).

Questions to ask the seller

• Why are they selling it?

• Is there anything wrong with it?

• How old is it?

• Has it ever been repaired?

• Are they the original owner? If so, do they have the receipt?

Refrigerant gases

Refrigerant gases are what keep fridges and freezers cool. One group of gases that was once common in fridges is fluorocarbons (CFCs, HFCs and HCFCs), but these are nasty ozone-depleting substances and active greenhouse gases. Most new fridges use hydrocarbon R600a (also called isobutane), which is more environmentally friendly and energy efficient than fluorocarbons.

Most fridges have a sticker or metal plate, generally on the back, stating the model’s name and refrigerant gas. If you want a more environmentally friendly model, then look for one using R600a gas.

Safety first

The refrigerants in fridges are combustible, meaning they can catch fire. While this isn’t an issue during everyday use, it’s important to remember when you’re moving a fridge or freezer. Failing to transport one properly could mean it catches on fire when it’s turned back on because the gas hasn’t had a chance to equalise. Make sure to transport the fridge or freezer upright, as this helps keep the gas where it needs to be.

If you have to move the appliance on its side, try to keep it on an angle. Once moved, sit it upright for about 24 hours (this may vary by manufacturer, so check the manual) before turning it on – this gives the gas time to settle.

Your rights if things go wrong

Bought something and want to take it back? Here's what you need to know about your rights. Consumer members can contact our Consumer Advice Line for help. Our advisers will talk you through your rights.

Buying new

If a product you buy is faulty or not of acceptable quality, you don’t have to put up with it. The Consumer Guarantees Act has got you covered – you don’t need a warranty. Here's more about how you can get a refund, repair or replacement for a faulty product.

Buying used

What are your consumer rights when purchasing a used fridge or freezer? It depends on the seller. If you’re buying from a second-hand dealer (including those listed as “In-trade” on Trade Me) and discover it’s faulty, you're covered by the Consumer Guarantees Act. It should be of acceptable quality, fit for purpose and match the description. However, if you’re dealing with a private seller, you’re not covered by the act. Here's more info about your rights when buying second-hand goods.

The Energy Rating Label has a scale of stars to show how energy efficient a model is, compared to other models of the same size/capacity.

More stars = more energy efficient.

The energy consumption figure is in kilowatt-hours (kWh) and you can use this figure and the cost (tariff) from your latest power bill to calculate how much this model will cost to run. The MBIE-reported national average cost of a kWh in New Zealand is 29¢.

Lower kWh = cheaper to run.

Fridge and freezer annual energy consumption in kWh is based on standards testing and assumes the appliance is on 24 hours a day.

You should only compare star ratings of fridges or freezers with the same or similar capacities.

There are now two fridge/freezer energy rating labels, using different standards and with different ratings. For information on energy ratings and how to use them, see our Energy Rating Labels explained article.