How to choose the best lawnmower

Lawnmower types

Before diving into our test database, consider the pros and cons of each type. This will help you choose the right model for your lawn and budget.

Petrol mowers

Performance

Petrol mowers with decent-sized engines (160cc+) develop more torque (rotational force) at max blade speeds than electric models. This means in dense, long grass, a good petrol mower is less likely to slow or stall.

While we don’t recommend mowing grass when it’s wet, petrol mowers are better than battery models at packing the catcher if the turf’s damp. 

Mulching

Most petrol mowers, even budget models, can mulch. This means they come with a plug you chuck in the catcher chute to recirculate clippings through the blades, turning them into a fine mulch.

Modern petrol mowers have dual-purpose blades (catch and mulch), meaning you only need to add the plug to convert between modes.

Ease of use

Petrol mowers are harder to use than electric models. Most still have a pull cord start, which can take a few yanks to get going when it’s cold. They’re heavier, much louder and produce fumes – although modern four-stroke models are quieter and run much cleaner than old two-strokes, and you don’t need to mix petrol and oil. And they need regular maintenance and servicing, including spark plug and oil changes.

Running costs

Petrol mowers are more expensive to run than battery-powered models. You might spend $50 to $100 in petrol each summer, plus the costs of regular maintenance and servicing.

Cutting height

Petrol mowers generally offer the widest range of cutting heights and can usually cut grass shorter – as low as 5mm or 10mm. But be aware that the mowers of some brands only cut down to 25mm–45mm.

Running time

A big drawcard of petrol mowers remains their infinite running time, as long as you’ve got fuel in the tank.

Reliability

The four-stroke engines powering petrol lawnmowers operate at high temperatures and can have the same mechanical issues as cars. They require regular maintenance and servicing, including spark plug and oil changes. However, modern petrol mowers are relatively reliable.

Battery-powered (cordless)

Performance

Battery-powered mowers produce less torque than petrol models. But our recommended models are powerful enough to give most lawns a tidy finish, even when cutting longish grass. You’ll only notice the power disparity compared to petrol in grass that’s damp or very long (200mm+) or when weeds are in the mix.

Mulching

Most of our recommended battery mowers are mulch & catch. And their performance is often as good as their petrol counterparts.

Ease of use

While some battery-powered mowers can weigh 30kg or more, most are 10kg to 15kg lighter than their petrol equivalents, making them much easier to handle. They’re also quieter, have lower levels of vibration, start at the push of a button, and don’t require much maintenance.

Running costs

Cordless mower batteries only cost about 10¢ to recharge. You won’t have to pay $50 to $100 in petrol each summer, or the costs of the regular servicing and maintenance required for petrol mowers. But you will need to have the blades sharpened from time to time.

And you’ll need to replace the battery after about 3–5 years, as they gradually lose capacity over time.

But you can save money when buying other tools as mower batteries can typically be used in several products within the manufacturer’s range, such as leaf blowers and line trimmers. Buying the “skin” (tool only) is cheaper than buying a kit that includes the tool, battery and charger.

Cutting height

Battery-powered mowers don’t generally cut as low as petrol models, only getting down to about 25mm.

Running time

This is the limiting factor for cordless mowers. The average run-time for the models we’ve tested is about 50 minutes. But there are many that’ll only run for 35 minutes or less (some only about 20) before needing to be recharged.

Reliability

Battery-powered mowers have fewer moving parts than petrol mowers, so they’re more reliable. But you’ll eventually need to replace their batteries.

Mains-electric (corded)

Performance

We haven’t recently tested any mains-electric lawnmowers, but we continue to monitor the market. The electric lawnmowers we previously tested didn’t perform as well as the battery-powered and petrol units. They give a more ragged cut than other mowers, and struggle when the going gets tough.

Mulching

Mains-electric mowers typically cut or catch only (“cut” means mowing without a catcher or mulching plug, so thick clumps of grass are returned to the lawn surface). However, some mains models cut quite finely on the first pass and recirculate some of the clippings through the blades, offering a pseudo-mulching effect.

Ease of use

Corded mowers are typically the lightest. They’re also quiet and easy to start. But dragging a power cord can be a hassle. Always use an RCD (residual-current device) plug to avoid a shock if you cut the cord.

Price

Corded mowers are usually the cheapest, aside from hand mowers. They’re simple units with no expensive battery, charger or engine.

Cutting height

The mains-electric mowers in our previous tests didn’t cut as low as petrol models.

Running time

Mains-electric mowers theoretically have no run-time limit. But they’re not designed for big jobs and can overheat if used for long periods.

Reliability

With no batteries and very few moving parts, it’s unsurprising that mains-electric mowers are the most reliable type.

Hand mowers

Hand (push) mowers are inexpensive, cheap to run, lightweight, compact, quiet, require little maintenance and they don’t require a power source. But they're not practical for large or sloping lawns, or for cutting long grass.

To get a consistent cut with a push mower, you need to keep the blades sharp and properly adjusted. You also need to mow regularly, before the grass gets too long.

Lawnmower features

Body material

An alloy body is more expensive than others. It’s corrosion resistant and likely to last longer in damp conditions – although it won’t last as well in sandy areas because sand wears away the aluminium.

Steel is cheaper but will rust unless cleaned and dried after every use. However, it’ll only dent if bumped into a large rock, whereas an alloy body can crack.

Plastic is lightweight and doesn't corrode, but it may not last as well if regularly pounded by stones and other debris. A plastic body is more suitable for well-tended lawns where there’s minimal chance of contact with stones and rocks.

Handle

A turned-up handle is usually easiest to use. Adjustable height is also an advantage. The handle should fold easily for storage.

Throttle control

Located on the handle bar for quick and easy access. It shouldn't be stiff.

Cutting height

Look for a large number of cutting heights. It should be easy to change the position using one lever acting on all four wheels.

Catcher

Catchers can be either solid plastic or partly mesh. Rigid plastic is heavier, but stronger than the mesh type, which can also allow dust to blow over the user. The catcher should have two handles, one for carrying and the other for emptying. It should be easy to remove and replace.

Engine maintenance (petrol mowers)

Petrol engines need servicing just like a car. Check how easy it will be to change the oil, air filter and spark plug. You need to keep an eye on the oil level and service it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. You should change the oil at least annually.

Starter cord (petrol mowers)

Some mowers have the starter cord on the handle, so you use your arm and perhaps upper body to operate it. Others have the cord down on the engine casing, requiring a full body pull. Neither guarantees an easy start. Before you buy a model with a starter cord, ask to try it out in the shop.

Some cords are located on the upper handle, which restricts the pulling action more than those placed further down the handle. Left-handers may find it harder to use a starter cord on the handle.

Wash port

Look for a hole on top of the body, designed for you to connect a hose to, for easy cleaning underneath.

Noise

There's no such thing as a quiet petrol-driven mower, but some are noisier than others. Check the vibration as well.

Easy push

Ball-bearing wheels make pushing easier. Self-propelled models are very easy to push, but they’re more expensive too.

Mulching or standard?

Mulching mowers have a specially shaped cutting blade and a catcher-chute plug. With the catcher removed and the plug inserted, the clippings are spun under the body and chopped up further by the blade. They are then blown down into the lawn, leaving a smoothly mown surface.

For successful mulching, the grass can’t be too short or too long. Cut too short and there won’t be a carpet of grass for the mulch to sink into and decompose. Left too long after cutting and the mulch will form clumps on the lawn – especially if the grass is wet. Also note that the length of the cut shouldn’t be more than 25mm.

Mulch & catch mowers are the most versatile. With the catcher attached and mulching plug removed, they can be used as a conventional catcher-only mower. Mulcher-only mowers dispense with the catcher. They operate in mulching mode only.

Check our test results to see which lawnmowers have the features you want.

Buying second-hand

Check the condition of the chassis. Look for cracks, dings or rust that’ll show it’s had a hard life. Don’t worry about blade sharpness, you can sharpen it yourself, or replace it cheaply.

Pay close attention to the condition of the handles, wheels, throttle and any switches. If they looked clapped out, make sure you can find spare parts online or in a shop.

For petrol models, check the motor type and brand. Give your local mower repair shop a call to make sure they can fix it if needed. Ask the seller about its service history.

Ask the seller to start it. Petrol models should start easily and not envelop you in smoke. If it’s a battery model, go in knowing batteries lose capacity through use and time – it’s likely to need replacing sooner rather than later (check price and availability of a replacement).

If you buy from a second-hand dealer and then discover the machine's faulty, you're covered by the Consumer Guarantees Act. If you buy privately, you're not.